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Aquaculture : an evolving market
Aquaculture has become one of the major food production sectors to meet consumer needs and it has grown to the point where it now accounts for half the fish production consumed worldwide. An evolving sector, aquaculture must nonetheless be seen as a long-term, sustainable process.
Aquaculture represents all animal and vegetable production activities in an aquatic environment. It is practiced in seawater, rivers or ponds (marine and continental aquaculture), or in cages or basins. It also covers other types of production such as shellfish breeding (notably with oyster, mussel, scallop or abalone farming, etc.), crustacean farming (crayfish, sea or freshwater shrimp) and seaweed farming.
Aquaculture is an ancient practice that first appeared in Egypt and in China in the fourth millennium BC. It concerns species raised for food or decorative purposes like the Koi carp and the crucian carp (goldfish). In the Middle Ages a semi-extensive aquaculture developed in ponds, notably in the Dombes region, for extra food for monks and peasants. Seawater ponds were used to keep or fatten fish and shellfish (crayfish).
Aquaculture around the world
Aquaculture underwent major development worldwide in the early 70’s through the use of modern techniques and the farming of new species, particularly in a marine environment. This situation can be explained by the levelling off of fishing output due to a sharp drop in the supply (30% over-fished or exhausted) and a steady rise in world consumption of aquatic products, because of the population growth and a shift in eating habits towards a preference for fish (from 11 kg/inhabitant in 1970 to 16.9 kg/inhabitant in 2008). As a result, aquaculture now manages to provide 50% of the world consumption of aquatic products (only 25% in France).
The world aquaculture yield was estimated at roughly 66 million tons in 2007 (compared with 16.6 million tons in 1991), 52 million tons of which are animal. While it only represents 37% of the total production of sea and freshwater products (against 15% in 1991) in volume, it represents over 50% in value. Aquaculture constitutes 14% of the supply of animal products worldwide and 8% of the supply of animal proteins in food intake. In the last twenty years, aquaculture has experienced sharp growth, which should continue, although at a slower rate. From 1990 to 2004, the growth rate was 230% (against 88% for poultry, 44% for pork, 26% for sheep and 17% for cattle). On a global level, 63% of aquaculture production comes from fish farming, almost three quarters of which is for China; the rest concerns shellfish farming.
European aquaculture
European aquaculture accounts for about 1.3 million tons. The prevalence of the Mediterranean countries (Spain, France, Italy, Greece) lies in the tonnage in terms of molluscs and saltwater fish (bass, sea bream, maigre, turbot) compared to the Scandinavian countries, which are very strong in salmon farming (780,000 tons of salmon in Norway).
The eastern countries are present in carp farming and diversifying into more profitable productions (salmon, sturgeon, etc.) Nevertheless, in many EU countries, including France, there has been a noticeable stagnation or even a decline in production, due to the conflict between two community policies, namely the CFP (Common Fisheries Policy) which supports development, and the Water Framework Directive that seeks to restrict it.
French aquaculture
In 2007, French aquaculture production totalled nearly 244,000 tons, including 193,650 tons of shellfish and 42,145 tons of fish and crustaceans (a few tons of the latter farmed in old Atlantic marshes). To this we can add 500 tons produced in the overseas regions and territories (except the Pacific) with over 450 tons of fish and 20 tons of crustaceans. These figures need to be compared with sea fishing figures, which totalled close to 492,000 tons (not including overseas territories).
French production has been declining for about fifteen years, although it remained steady from the end of World War II up to the end of the 60’s with an annual output of 100,000 tons, including 10,000 tons of fish. In the 1970s and 80’s, the production almost tripled in volume to 280,000 tons due to the development of shellfish breeding and particularly oyster farming and the entry of new farmers.
Fish farming production
Inland fish farming (freshwater) developed sharply between 1975 and 1990, going from 15,500 tons to 50,800 tons. Yet Salmonidiae production fell by 20% to level off at 37,100 tons between 1997 and 2007. However, 21 tons of French farmed sturgeon caviar should be added to this figure (world leader).
French production is divided between Salmonidiae (rainbow trout, in Aquitaine and Brittany), still water fish (care, roach, pike) farmed in freshwater basins, marine fish (4,500 tons of bass, 1,700 tons of sea bream, 900 tons of turbot, maigre, salmon, etc.) farmed in floating cages or basins on the coast. France is the second largest European trout producer. However, French salmon farming has lost 27% of its sites in ten years and 35% of its jobs. Marine fish farming started in the 1970s. Its production is estimated at about 8,000 tons, spread between 60 sites. It grew by 40% between 1997 and 2007. The farms are specialized in fish farming or fish fattening (bass, sea bream, turbot).
French companies’ technological edge allows them to export over 60% of marine fish stock. It must be pointed out that the production of sea bream and turbot exceeds the fishery intake of the same species. Freshwater farms occupy 112,000 hectares (Sologne, Dombes, Forez, Lorraine, Brenne) and produce 10,000 tons, of which only 2,200 tons are consumed (the remainder is redistributed to re-stocking, the live market and private fishing). France has also developed an organic aquaculture production, representing 450 tons of trout and 450 tons of bass and sea bream.
Shellfish farming has also seen a levelling off of its production in the last fifteen years, in a market that could be increased. France remains the leading farmed shellfish producer in Europe, with 195,000 tons, including 115,200 tons of oysters and 76,650 tons of mussels.
Aquaculture role and positioning
French aquaculture plays an important role in environmental integration, because it reduces the pressure to fish endangered species, by its role as a watchdog on water quality, by maintaining humid areas inland and on the coast. It is also recognized for the quality of its production, environmental conservation (although it has been blamed for some pollution) and health safety.
. It is also meets market requirements through regular supplies, batch traceability and the quality of the products. Aquaculture creates direct jobs and also contributes to the emergence of indirect jobs tied to other types of development (restocking rivers and ponds, small packaging and processing units) and the creation of business activities downstream (processing and packaging companies).
Francis Duriez
( Source : CIPA, Bima/Min Agri., FAO, FranceAgrimer, CNPMEM)
Pro reviews
Crédit photo : Aqualande
Eric Mezrich
(Commercial Director of the "refrigerated and frozen" sector of Aqualande - Roquefort 40)
“Aqualande was the first river trout production cooperative in Europe. Created thirty years ago, it produces 5,500 tons of rainbow trout in 26 fish farms, 500 tons of bass on two marine farms, 250 million of trout embryo eggs for itself and its clients around the world, not to mention marine fish stocks. We function in integrated production by controlling the entire sector, from egg or young fish to the fish on the stalls, under our own or private brands. We sell to large and medium-sized retailers, wholesale markets, catering markets and a little intra-community export.
In France, inland aquaculture remains quite stable if not declining slightly in volume, although it is growing in terms of segmentation and the development of research on new species (sole, pollack, maigre, etc.). Aquaculture (both marine and inland) is developing strongly worldwide, following the example set by Norway and Asia. The strategy adopted in France and in our cooperative is to implement a sustainable, responsible approach through guaranteed traceability and serious qualitative and health and safety monitoring, vouched for by the charter “Aquaculture of France, Aquaculture of our regions”. The product’s image is no longer built on prices; it is based on quality and respect for the environment. In this respect, the information about the fish feed is transparent, whether with regard to the fishmeal, which is perfectly identified and controlled, the increase in vegetable feeds (oils) and the decrease in fish oils. Aquaculture has also expanded its offer by better segmentation, more adapted to consumer demand. Aquaculture is a complement to natural fish resources and its image is changing for the better. It will undoubtedly develop through the quality of its products.”
 Crédit photo : FD
Pascal Le Gal
( President of CIPA and chairman of the Salmodis group)
“Created in 1997, CIPA (the French inter-trade committee for aquaculture products) represents the entire French aquacultural sector (producers of trout and marine animals, feed manufacturers, transformers), through its various committees, namely some 500 sites, 350 companies, national production of about 55,000 tons of aquaculture products, including almost 40,000 tons of trout, and a total annual turnover of €250 million.
Aquaculture initially focused on trout (rainbow) where the growth cycle is short (1 year for a trout portion) before moving onto salmon, bass, turbot, sea bream and sole, which are more complex to produce. France, which was the first world producer of farmed caviar, now leads the production of marine stocks and exports all over the world. It has acquired particularly efficient means at all levels (traceability, feed and pollution control, food safety, etc.) to become completely safe, transparent aquaculture and offer consumers the best quality. Fish farmers are aware that their future would be compromised without transparency and the sector has committed itself on the issue of sustainable development in the last fifteen years. This has helped our aquaculture achieve a first rate image and quality rating internationally.
Aquaculture is a constantly growing sector (except in France, where no new site has been created in 10 years!), and it has become a European priority due to the decrease in fish resources. For these reasons, it should receive more support for its economic objectives and its sustainable development effort.”
 Crédit photo : CFA Poissonnerie Rungis
Bruno Gauvain
(Director of CFA Poissonnerie Rungis - MOF (best French worker) fishmonger)
“When I was a retail fishmonger, I used to sell a small number of aquaculture products that were certified and selected according to their origin.
At the CFA (apprentice training centre), we work a lot with aquaculture products (sea bream, bass, salmon, etc.) because of their steady prices, which means we can schedule our purchases and it costs us much less than wild fish. Aquaculture is undoubtedly one of the solutions to the shortage of natural fish resources, although it must meet strict specifications with regard to environmental protection, total traceability and the organoleptic and gustative quality of the fish. As long as it respects these criteria, the development of aquaculture makes sense because it can help balance production and consumption of aquatic products. However, I am still keen on traditional sea and river products.”
 Crédit photo : FD
José Correia
(Manager of J'Oceane - Seafood sector - Rungis)
“Our company represents €46 million in turnover, with a workforce of 90 people, a thousand clients (including 200 French restaurants and 400 Japanese restaurants) and 200 tons of seafood products sold per week. We have a strong demand from Paris restaurants and fishmongers for aquaculture (farmed) fish and products. They are good quality products and we have selected our suppliers according to the best value for money. In aquaculture, our volumes are segmented as follows: 50 tons/week of Norwegian salmon, with a little Label Rouge from Scotland, 4 tons of bass, 6 tons of sea bream, 2 tons of turbot and 3 tons of shrimp (including Madagascar).
Our products come from the European Community and are all tracked by our suppliers. Furthermore, the latter adapt and adhere to our recommendations in terms of quality, through our quality charter. Our aquaculture products are tested by our own services before going to market.
Aquaculture will progress towards higher quality and more suppliers and operators and propose other species (sole, etc.) on the market.”
Crédit photo : Champagne C
Michel Blanchet
(President of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France - chef and owner of the restaurant Le Tastevin in Maisons - Laffitte 78 - 1*Michelin and 2*Bottin Gourmand)
“Farmed fish is playing a much bigger role in catering today and represents 40% of the fish served in restaurants of all types. In a few years, wild fish like turbot and line-fished bass will become a rarity and very expensive. If we want to continue eating fish, aquaculture has to exist and develop. Aquaculture will certainly offset the decrease in fish resources but it won’t replace them. With aquaculture, there is always a supply of fresh fish, traceability and quality, like the Label Rouge example. We just have to control the cooking more closely with farmed fish because the flesh is not as firm. CIPA and other organizations have made efforts to improve quality which is good news for the consumer. For greater transparency, we need to mention that it is farmed fish and the origin on the label and on the menu. In conclusion, we shouldn’t hesitate to eat farmed fish.”
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