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Franche-Comté : a land of nature & traditions
Franche-Comté is major farming and gastronomic region, taking full advantage of its varied, generous natural resources. It is an attractive region because of its know-how and skills, known throughout the world for the great quality of its products.
Franche-Comté is a mountainous region bordering Switzerland, which groups four departments: Doubs, Jura, Haute-Saône and the Territoire de Belfort. It spans a surface area of 16 202 km², or 3% of the country, and it is primarily occupied by the Jura massif. The three main peaks are Crêt Pela in the Jura department (1495 m), Mont d'Or in the Doubs department (1463 m) and Ballon d'Alsace in the Territoire de Belfort (1247 m). The region has 5 350 km of waterways, and the largest rivers (Ain, Doubs, Loue, Saône) are well-stocked with fish (trout, char, pike, eel, carp, shad, etc). The Franche-Comté landscape is dominated by forests (700 000 hectares), valleys (Saône, Doubs, Ognon), and vineyards. The two main ecosystems (forests, lakes and rivers) are home to a varied, extensive fauna.
The semi-continental climate is characterized by relatively high humidity and a temperature range that is quite large, with cold winters and mild summers.
The population totals about 1 250 000 inhabitants, with the Doubs department the most heavily populated with 516 160 inhabitants. The principal cities are Besançon (regional capital), Belfort, Montbéliard and Dôle.
Ideally located in the centre of a market of 227 million Europeans, Franche-Comté has a very developed food industry (second largest employer in the region), a thriving industrial sector with car manufacturing (largest employer and 10% of French production), railways (TGV), luxury goods, micro-technologies and research. Because of its dynamism it has become the leading region in France for exports.
Efficient agriculture
Franche-Comté agriculture occupies 731 220 hectares, or 45% of the region’s surface area. Permanent grasslands account for 460 000 hectares and arable land totals 302 000 hectares. The climate and the topography of the region naturally incline it towards cattle-rearing (612 980 head in 2009) and three quarters of the 9 870 farms are devoted to dairy farming, principally on the plateaus and the high slopes of the Jura massif. The cattle-rearing to produce beef is proportionally larger in the Territoire de Belfort and the Haute-Saône. Predominant in the Doubs department, the pig population totals 113 920 head (including 48 500 porkers of over 50 kg and 31 300 piglets). The sheep population (72 750 head) is mostly concentrated in the Haute-Saône department. Horse breeding accounts for 17 410 animals, including 11 040 saddle horses and 5 540 draught horses. Known for its sturdiness, the Franche-Comté horse is the leading draught breed in France. This breed had almost disappeared before it was rescued by a handful of devoted breeders at the beginning of the 20th century.
The plains of the north of the Jura and the west of the Haute-Saône department are more geared to large farms with 145 000 hectares devoted to cereal crops (including 63 430 ha of bread wheat, 34 360 ha of barley and 32 450 ha of maize), 38 450 ha to oil-producing plants (rape, sunflower, etc.) and 21 340 ha to fodder crops. Despite low production of fruit and vegetables, the Franche-Comté region nonetheless produces numerous local varieties of apples (including Reine des reinettes, Belle fleur jaune, Rambour d’hiver, Abondance de Belfort, etc.), hazelnuts, walnuts, cherries (kirsch and jams).
Organic agriculture represents 3.8% of the farmland in Franche-Comté (25 283 ha) and 335 farms, 60% of which produce cheese. The land under organic agriculture breaks down as follows: 21 300 ha in fodder crops, 3 650 in cereals, 253 in fruit and vegetables and 139 in vineyards.
The Franche-Comté forests cover over 43% of the region’s territory (700 000 hectares, ranked second nationally after Aquitaine). It is divided between broad-leaved trees (465 000 hectares) and conifers (211 530 hectares). The wood sector plays an important role in the economy (with over 10 000 jobs).
Some famous cheeses
Because of the size of its dairy herd, Franche-Comté is quite naturally geared to cheese production with 80% of the milk collection (10 million hectolitres/year) coming for the most part from the Montbeliard breed and the remainder from the French Simmental breed. The region represents 17% of French dairies and half the producers fall under the AOC sector (controlled origin certification).
With 52 000 tons produced mainly by 170 cooperative cheese dairies, Comté cheese (AOC 1958) absorbs half of this dairy production. This pressed cheese made from unpasteurized milk is creamy and smooth, with a hazelnut flavour (matured for four and twenty-four months), and a whole cheese of 40 kg requires 450 litres of milk. The production of Morbier cheese (AOC 2000, AOP 2002) totals 9 000 tons. This pressed uncooked cheese made from unpasteurized milk is distinguished by its dark stripe of carbon vegetable in the centre. Gex is an uncooked blue cheese from the Haut-Jura (AOC 1977) or Septmoncel (whole cheese of 7 kg) made with unpasteurized milk (the only blue cheese in Franche-Comté), with a total production of around 600 tons. Matured for three weeks in cellars,
it is not as strong as the other blue cheeses but it has a more fragrant flavour. With a total production of 4 500 tons, Mont d’Or (AOC 1981) is a lightly pressed soft cheese made with unpasteurized milk that has a washed rind. Matured for three weeks, it is turned and brushed every day with saltwater. Bound by a strip of spruce bark that gives it a special flavour, it is only made between 15 August and 15 March. Emmental grand cru (Label Rouge 1979 and IGP) is a supple, smooth pressed cheese made with unpasteurized milk that has a fruity flavour and is matured for at least twelve weeks. It requires 850 litres of milk to produce a whole cheese of 80 kg. Gruyère (AOC 2007) is a cooked pressed cheese made with unpasteurized milk. It has a rind with a surface smear obtained by regular brushing with water and salt. It is placed for ten days in a cold cellar, then a warm cellar for three weeks (forming holes) and matured for 120 days. About 400 litres of milk are necessary to make a whole cheese of 40 kg.
Typical of Franche-Comté gastronomy, Cancoillotte is a semi-liquid cheese made from cow’s milk with 5% fat, with a soft centre (called “metton”) sold in pots of 200 to 500 g, with a very distinctive smell and taste.
A well-known wine-growing area and some famous wines
The Franche-Comté wine-growing area, one of the oldest in France, planted by the Romans, represents 2 480 hectares (with 1 650 hectares under AOC) located for the most part in the Jura department, on marly schist. Although one of the smallest wine-growing area in France, it is also one of the most original by its diversity and the specificity of certain wine-growing techniques. The Arbois vineyards are the largest with 800 hectares and the first to earn AOC certification in 1936. The region produces five grape varieties (Savagnin and Chardonnay for the white wines and Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau for the red wines), four geographical classifications (Arbois, Côte du Jura, Etoile, Château Chalon) and two classified products (Macvin, Crémant du Jura). In 2009, the production totalled 58 650 hectolitres of white wine and 30 000 hectolitres of red wine.
The very well-known, heady Vin Jaune is made from one grape variety (Savagnin) and aged in oak barrels for six years and three months (walnut and hazelnut aromas). Château-Chalon (50 hectares, AOC 1958) is the birthplace and the great wine of Vin Jaune. It is sold in a 0.62-litre bottle called a “clavelin”.
The syrupy Paille wine (Savagnin, Poulsard, Chardonnay grape varieties) is made from bunches of grapes placed on racks (of straw) or hung in a well-ventilated place for two months or more, which are then pressed. After a very slow fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels for two to three years. A hundred kilos of grapes produces eighteen litres of wine. The Côtes du Jura (AOC 1937), made from Chardonnay and Savagnin grape varieties, are fine, powerful white wines that are dry and fruity.
Either white (90%) or rosé, Crémant du Jura (AOC 1995) is a sparkling wine (Champagne method) produced over a controlled area that encompasses those of Arbois, Etoile, Côtes du Jura and Château-Chalon and from the corresponding grape varieties. The white version contains 50% Chardonnay grape variety, while the rosé version has 50% Pinot Noir and Poulsard. The grapes are harvested by hand.
Etoile (Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard) is a white wine produced in a small wine-growing area (4% of the Franche-Comté wine-growing area, AOC since1937) with a very strong taste of flint and hazelnut.
Macvin is a liqueur wine made from a blend of grape juice and Jura marc (18° and 20°C).
Well-known specialties
Cooked meat products hold price of place among the specialties from Franche-Comté. The Morteau sausage IGP (20 cm, 4 cm diameter, 350 g) is made from the meat (shoulder, loin, ham) of a pig fed on whey that is then coarsely chopped and kneaded before being stuffed into a natural casing sealed by a wooden peg at one end. It is then smoked for 48 hours with resinous wood in a large chimney stack known as a “tuyé”. Morteau Label Rouge sausage (also IGP certified) is made with Franche-Comté Label Rouge pork that is also whey-fed. The Montbéliard sausage (15 cm long, 3.5 cm diameter, 150 g) is made from pork flavoured with caraway or cumin,
stuffed in natural pork casing (small intestine) and smoked by traditional methods. Similar to Grisons meat, Brési is made from salted, dried beef that is smoked (for at least three weeks).
Luxeuil ham (Franche-Comté pork) is salted and smoked (ancient recipe) after macerating in a tub of salt and juniper berries.
Gandeuillot is a smoked chitterlings sausage produced by traditional methods in Fougerolles (Haute-Saône).
A small proportion of Bresse poultry (only AOC poultry) is also produced in the Jura (Bresse chicken and hen).
A rich, authentic gastronomy
The pastry and bread specialties include gingerbread from Dôle and Besançon, a custard tart called “tarte au goumeau”, the “galette comtoise” (choux pastry with orange flower), the Montbozon biscuit and sugared almonds from Besançon. Like the region, Franche-Comté cooking is authentic and diversified and innovative too, reinterpreted by talented young chefs. The typical dishes include coq au vin jaune, fattened hen with morels, chicken à la comtoise), Jura cheese fondue, Mont d’Or hot cheese, a sausage and potato casserole called morbiflette, puff pastries with Comté cheese, a thick cheese pancake called michon, raclette and fondue, a fish and white wine dish called pochouse, and trout with vin jaune.
The desserts include grape and Macvin liqueur pie, griottines (cherries in liqueur) from Fougerolles, cream flavoured with Paille wine.
The region is also known for its liqueurs and spirits, including absinthe from Pontarlier, kirsch from Fougerolles, the liqueur made from Vosges fir trees, gentian bitters, etc.
Francis Duriez
Sources: Agreste, Interfrance, Librairie Gourmande Paris, Identité et Territoires, Chambre Régionale d’Agriculture de Franche-Comté, Conseil Régional de Franche-Comté, Comté Régional de Franche-Comté
Credit photos :
Pro reviews
Crédit photo : FD
Nicolas Ivancic
(Manager of Cantrel- cooked meat products - Rungis)
“We sell just over 1 000 tons of cooked meat products a year to a clientele of butchers, delicatessens and caterers in Ile-de-France, via different product lines, the largest of which is dry products, cooked hams and pâtés. We distribute two excellent flagship products from Franche-Comté, notably Morteau sausage (60%) and Montbéliard sausage (30%), which represent 30 tons/year (3% of our volumes), bearing an IGP label, as well as a cooked smoked ham made by traditional methods, all three of which are very high quality products. Franche-Comté is a very beautiful region in gastronomic terms and I am wholly satisfied with these products.”
Crédit photo : Decreuse
Hubert Decreuse
(Manager of the pork butcher Decreuse - Lacluse-et-Mijoux - Franche-Comté)
“Our company was created in 1965 and produces traditional sausages from Franche-Comté, like Morteau (140 tons) and Montbéliard (100 tons), according to special specifications. We produce the IGP and Label Rouge Morteau and the Montbeliard pending IGP certification. We won a gold medal at the 2011 Paris Agricultural Competition for our IGP Morteau. The sales of these products are growing because of their special qualities in terms of taste and the IGP recognition. In our region, every product is tied to the land and to tradition. Franche-Comté is a rich, authentic region but it is still not well-known.”
Crédit photo : FD
Sophie Desailly
(Chairman of Alazard and Managing Director of Desailly - PLA Rungis)
“Our company was created in 1965 and produces traditional sausages from Franche-Comté, like Morteau (140 tons) and Montbéliard (100 tons), according to special specifications. We produce the IGP and Label Rouge Morteau and the Montbeliard pending IGP certification. We won a gold medal at the 2011 Paris Agricultural Competition for our IGP Morteau. The sales of these products are growing because of their special qualities in terms of taste and the IGP recognition. In our region, every product is tied to the land and to tradition. Franche-Comté is a rich, authentic region but it is still not well-known.”
Crédit photo : Yves Petit / Région Franche Comté
Marie-Guite Dufay
( President of the Regional Council of Franche-Comté)
“Franche-Comté is the leading industrial region in France with the presence of the car industry. It has know-how in the field of toy manufacture, watch-making, spectacle manufacture and micro-techniques. It is present in four competitiveness centres: micro-techniques, vehicles of the future, Plastipolis and Vitagora. This European taste-nutrition-health centre is positioned at the crossroads of the food industry and health professionals. It is ranked in 5th place nationally for research (41 research units and over 2 750 research scientists). Agriculture plays an important role in our region with top quality products and the forest covers 44% of the territory. Agriculture is essential to our economy. The milk sector represents 4.6% of national production and it stands out for the small size of the processing tools (192). The conversion of milk into AOC certified produce is important and 18% of the AOC processed milk in France is produced in Franche-Comté!
We must not forget the vegetable productions, including over 2 500 ha of vineyards, mostly in the Jura department, with some famous names like Vin Jaune, Château-Chalon, l’Etoile, Vin de paille, Macvin, Arbois, Cotes du Jura and Crémant. In addition to its cheeses (Comté, Morbier, Mont d’Or, Bleu de Gex), Franche-Comté is known for its wine-growing labels. Regarding signs of quality, Morteau sausage now benefits from IGP certification since a year ago. Organic agriculture is also important and the Jura department has already met the standards set in the context of the Grenelle de l’Environnement, with 6% of the surface area under organic agriculture.
The Regional Council encourages short circuits. We notably incite our secondary school administrators and cooks to use local produce by preference, if possible from organic agriculture.
Lastly, to make our products better known outside of the region and easily identifiable, I will shortly announce the launch of our regional brand.”
Crédit photo : CPPR Franche Comté
Michel François
( Director of the Committee to promote Franche-Comté regional products)
“Our organization is an association that groups, firstly, twenty two inter-trade associations for farm produce from Franche-Comté, local authorities like the Regional Council and the general councils and, secondly, the three regional consular chambers (agriculture, trade and crafts).
Our mission is to assure the collective promotion of regional products in regional, national and international markets. We represent all the sectors at some events or we provide them with logistical support. We assist regional companies at about a dozen international trade shows. In 2011, we will be managing the collective regional brand, which will be in place after 6 April this year.
We have products that have been under official quality labels for a long time, notably the six AOC wines from the Jura department, one of which is the first in France in terms of the date, as well as the AOC Comté cheese for over 50 years. These two products, often more known that the region itself, are flagship products that play a key role in awareness of our products. Furthermore, there are many products that have had the recognition of an official quality label for more or less longer periods (Morbier, Mont d'or, Gruyere, Gex blue cheese, Emmenthal grand cru, Bresse poultry and recently Morteau sausage, Monbéliard sausage, kirsch from Fougerolles, and IGP certification for local wines).
The multitude of products from Franche-Comté under official quality labels shows the important work done by the inter-trade associations to produce top quality products that promote the image of Franche Comté, a very diversified region with products of unarguable authenticity.”
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