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Belgique : A land of gastronomic delights
Belgium is famous for its outstanding cuisine which is based on the extraordinary diversity and quality of its products. Sitting at the crossroads of Europe, Belgium has retained its traditional culinary originality while at the same time incorporating influences from the various countries that have occupied it at different times in its history. It has thus established an excellent reputation for its cuisine and a strong culinary identity.
Judging by the variety of their national dishes and recipes the Belgians can be said to be enthusiastic food-lovers; indeed, the famous cliché "The Belgians live on mussels, French fries and beer" could not be further from the truth. Generous, rustic and festive, both varied and original, Belgian cuisine owes its fame to its use of a host of top-quality products.
A cornucopia of vegetables
Belgium offers a richly diverse palette of fruits and vegetables developed through long tradition and based on authentic know-how. The auction market system dates back to the beginning of the 20th century, and Belgian production, through its Flandria mark (Europe's leading quality mark at 475,000 tonnes) is a model of an exceptionally well planned, high-quality system. Belgium produces 1.19 million tonnes of vegetables grown in open fields, including 534,000 tonnes for the fresh food market (137,000 t of leeks, 70,000 t of chicory, 68,000 t of carrots and 54,000 t of Brussels sprouts). This produce is mainly grown in Flanders,
Belgium's largest economic region, along with green beans, red and white cabbage, asparagus (Malines), green peas, onions, and many other vegetables. Exports account for some 747,000 t, a third of which goes to France. The offer is completed by some 382,713 tonnes of vegetables grown under glass, which includes 246,000 t of tomatoes, 72,000 t of head lettuce, 17,000 t of sweet peppers.
Beautiful fruits
Belgian fruit production mainly covers apples (370,000 t including the Jonagold variety and various hybrids), pears (250,000 t including the Conference variety), strawberries (44,000 t including the excellent Hoogstraten variety), small fruits and red fruits (10,000t).
Belgian potato production (less than 3 million tonnes) is mostly destined for processing (2 million t; 0.8 million t as fresh and frozen French fries using the bintje and agria varieties) and has increased four-fold over the last fifteen years. French fries enthusiasts claim that Belgian chips are the best in the world
Delicious meat and charcuterie products
For centuries now Belgian cuisine has been famous for the taste and quality of its meat and charcuterie, most of which is produced in Flanders. Pork is the most popular meat (50 kg per year per person, including 16 kg of charcuterie products). The flagship products of the charcuterie sector are: Ardenne ham (IGP - protected geographic origin, 1,500 tonnes) produced exclusively in the Belgian Ardennes region (dry-salted, smoked over hardwoods gathered in the region, aged in cold chambers),
and cooked and dry-salted hams (aged for nine months on the bone) marketed under the Flemish Magistral quality label. Black sausages, sausages, saucissons, terrines and pâtés complete this range. Beef (21kg per year per person) is qualitatively represented by the BBB (Blanc Bleu Belge) breed (known in English as the Belgian Blue) famous for its exceptionally tender meat (see p. 16). Belgian poultry (19 kg per year per person) is also renowned, especially the famous Coucou de Malines.
An excellent range of cheeses
With its prime dairy herd, Belgium is able to offer a rich and varied range of cheeses. In relation to its size, Belgium is one of the countries with the most diverse range of cheeses boasting over a hundred varieties (nearly double if we take into account all the different versions). There are fresh cheeses (Maquée, Bètchéye de Nivelles), soft cheeses (with washed rinds such as the famous Herve Doux, the Fleur de Fagnes, the spicy Remoudou de Herve, and the Boulette de Huy, among others), semi-hard cheeses (Chimay Cru à la Bière, Passendaele, Val de Salm, etc.), hard cheeses (Vieux Bruges, Fagnar, Seozen, Baeuvoorde, etc.), blue cheeses (Bleu de Franchimont, Chateau d’Arville, Pas de Bleu, etc.), and goat's cheeses from Wallonia.
The land of beer
Belgium is, beyond question, a land famous for its beer. Of the original 3,000 breweries and 10,000 beer varieties listed in 1900, only about 140 breweries and 450 beer varieties remain today. Annual consumption is 97 litres per person, against 150 litres only forty years ago. Beer is widely used in Belgian cuisine; there are three main types of fermentation process: high-temperature (yeasts that react at high temperatures, +22°C), low-temperature (slave concept, 5% vol.), and spontaneous (air-disseminated micro flora gives the beer its acid taste: Lambic, Kriek and Gueuze). According to Mrs Anne De Ryck (manager of the De Ryck brasserie), "high-temperature fermentation results in stronger tasting beers with a floral note"
The most popular beers by category are:
• Abbaye (high-temperature fermentation): Leffe, Grimbergen, Affligem,
• Trappiste (high fermentation, unpasteurised): Chimay, Westmalle, Orval
• White (high-temperature fermentation, young, hint of wheat and coriander, unfiltered): Hoegaerden, Haacht, Bruges
• Artisanal (high-temperature fermentation): Duvel, Charles Quint, Bière du Château
• Oud bruin (old brown) (high-temperature and spontaneous fermentation): Rodenbach, Liefmans, Bacchus
• Gueuze (spontaneous fermentation and fruits): Mort Subite, St-Louis, Belle-Vue
• Pils (low-temperature fermentation, accounts for 70% of Belgian consumption): Jupiler, Stella Artois, Maes Pils.
The strongest variety is Bush Beer (12% vol.); the beer voted "World best" by an American jury is the Trappiste Westvleteren beer (limited production only).
Chocolate and sweets
Belgium's love affair with chocolate dates back to the time of the Spanish invasions and the conquest of the Artois. Since the 19th century, Belgian artisans and industrials have been developing high-quality products and brands of international renown through a dedicated effort covering selection of the best cocoa beans, subtle blending and careful preparation (the beans are crushed to 12 microns as opposed to 24 microns elsewhere). Artisans produce 100% pure "cocoa butter" under the Ambao label.
A number of famous Belgians (Neuhaus, Leonidas, Corné, Callebaut, Godiva, Marcolini, Galler, Guylian, among others) first pioneered and then became masters in the production of praline which currently counts a hundred odd different varieties (which lead sales at 23%) that are sold in attractive sweet boxes. Ninety-eight percent of Belgians regularly eat chocolate. In addition to chocolate, Belgium also produces a mouth-watering range of sweets and pastries including waffles, speculoos (crunchy biscuits flavoured with sugar and spice), massepains (sweetened almond paste in different shapes), couques (hard honey biscuits) and gosettes (stewed apples in puff pastry).
A rich and varied gastronomy
In Belgium, gastronomy reigns and the country is dotted with Michelin-starred chefs. Many famous chefs have made their name in Belgium; P.E. Cauderlier (see box), the counterpart of our genial Escoffier in France, to name just one. With its extensive range of meat and tripe, game and poultry, seafood produce, delicatessen products, charcuteries, cheeses, fruits and vegetables, desserts, sweets and pastries, Belgian cuisine offers a host of subtle and sophisticated dishes that includes Gantoise-style asparagus, jellied calf's head, eels in green sauce, Douny duck, chicory gratin, Brabançonne cockrel, Flanders hotpot, Flemish carbonades (beef stew cooked with beer), Gantoise-style waterzoï (soups with fish or chicken), potjevleisch (jellied meat terrine), Ostend-style sole, frogs legs with chicken, stoemp (cabbage hotpot), veal sweetbreads with herve doux cheese, French toast with apricots.
Flowers and plants are essential for putting the finishing touches to your decoration. Tom Laybaert, producer in Moerbeke (Flanders) says, "Belgium is a leading producer of plants and flowers and the horticultural sector is flourishing. In particular, Belgian azaleas offer unbeatable quality and currently dominate the European market.
Francis Duriez
Source : VLAM, OTB, Auda, C. Deglas, Maison des Brasseurs, ASBL Chopabrisco
Pro reviews
Jean-Claude Reverdy
CEO of Reverdy & Cie
"Our business covers the distribution of fruits and vegetables to operators on the Rungis Market trading floor. We have been working with Belgian companies for over twenty years now, and they currently represent 35% of our turnover. We have a single Flemish supplier who delivers the whole range of fruits and vegetables. These products are of excellent quality and often complement French products during their supply period. Following the spring campaign in France and continuing up to December we sell 500 tonnes annually of the Elsanta variety Hoogstraten strawberry, which is perfectly suited to the Belgian climate. Indeed, we are one of the biggest French buyers of this particular variety of strawberry. Belgian potato and pear production is of the same high quality standard. The same applies to Belgium's vegetable production despite strong competition from productions of other origins. All Belgian products are perfectly sized and packaged. Furthermore, Belgian exporters are highly responsive, focus strongly on meeting customer requirements, and have the added advantage of being geographically close to France and of having a well-developed logistics service. They have an excellent command of the export business, even selling tomatoes in Spain and fruits in Italy at very reasonable prices."
René Maillard
Director of the Belgian Meat Office
"Our meat sector, which is firmly rooted in a traditional approach and has a strong sense of trademanship, is driven by an extensive, in-depth knowledge that guarantees the quality of our products. Major emphasis is placed on breed selection and genetic research, in the beef sector with the Blanc Bleu Belge (BBB) breed and in the pork sector with the Piétrain and Landrace breeds. This work has ensured our status as leading players on the European market for top-quality meat that meets consumer demand. Also, we have set up a whole network of sectors and quality labels - meritus for beef, certus for pork, magistral for charcuterie, BCV for veal - which has enabled us to increase our market share by 20% in a relatively short period of time. In Belgium, beef production is predominantly Flemish with a strong focus on export."
Moïse Balleur
Manager of the company Plantes de Lutèce - Rungis.
"About 20% of our marketed products come from Belgium. Our flowering plants catalogue includes azaleas, geraniums, chrysanthemums, spatiphylium, clivia, and heather, among others. Our cutting plants catalogue includes adianthum (fern), areca (palm), asparagus, box, chamaecyparis elwoodi (conifer), aucuba and top-quality kentia palms which we use to make outdoor decorative plant compositions. Belgian horticultural production boasts a wide range of plants to choose from, the outstanding quality of which is related to the soil mixture the plants are grown in which is calculated to perfectly suit both natural outdoor and indoor greenhouse growth. This results in stronger, longer-lasting plants. We sell pots of 8-10 plants that are highly sought after for their composition and are perfectly packed. There is no doubt that the Belgians are leading professionals in the horticultural sector."
Guy Van Cauteren
Chef-owner of the restaurant ‘T Laurier Blade - Berlare (Eastern Flanders).
"I created the ‘T Laurier Blade (which means "Bayleaf") in 1979, close to where my parents used to run their butcher's shop. After graduating from the Ostend catering college I worked at Alain Senderens in France in 1972 and then at the French Embassy in Brussels in 1975, before opening my own restaurant in 1979. I gained my first Michelin star in 1980, and have been Michelin-starred ever since. I promote authentic Flemish cuisine featuring dishes such as beef braised in beer, cod with Gand mustard sauce, flambeed veal sweetbreads with juniper berries, chicken waterzoï (a creamy chicken stew), hot pot, hop sprouts with hot poached beef consommé, Polders hare, elder flower beignets, speculoos (spicy biscuits), vlaaien (spicy flan with cane sugar syrup), and a host of other delicious recipes. With a certain similarity to its French neighbour, Flemish cuisine is rich, varied, and opulent, rather like a painting by Bruegel the Elder; it is also undergoing constant change. Indeed, many of our chefs were trained in France and use French products. Lastly, Belgium as a country has been marked by diverse influences throughout its history, which continues to shape its cuisine even today."
Freddy Dutoit
Director of the VLAM - Flemish Agro-marketing Office - for France and Switzerland.
"Our mission is to promote Flemish agro-food products in Belgium and abroad. We federate producers from small family enterprises across some ten or so sectors including beef and pork, poultry, fruits and vegetables, plants and flowers, dairy produce, and so on, in order to position them on the European market. Flanders is Belgium's economic lung. We market the following products in France: fruits and vegetables (just behind Germany, the leader), plants and flowers (green and flowering plants, nursery plants, leading market), beef (leading export market) and pork (3rd-ranked market) and poultry. We have over 60 wholesaler customers at Rungis Market. As we have an export-driven economy, overall sales volumes exported to France exceed 25%. This breaks down as 60% for plants and flowers (azaleas, nursery plants for ornamental plants and fruit trees), 25% for beef and 20% for pork. We have established ourselves on foreign markets through the quality of our top-of-the-range products and our compliance with the standards in client countries. At the crossroads of Europe, our top-quality products are perfectly aligned with the European market."
Bert Stas
Communications and Marketing Manager at the vegetable market auction in Malines - Belgium.
"After the1995 crisis, we opted for a top-of-the-range vegetable production which led to the creation of Flandria, our quality mark. We started with tomatoes, then added endives, and today sell around 50 different types of vegetable. All the Belgian auction markets have cooperated with Flandria and 80% of Belgian products are now marketed under the Flandria label. We have succeeded in unifying the production, quality, inspection and distribution aspects of product marketing. Standards have changed drastically since 1995 and, today, we have two sets of specifications and various levels of inspection at both the producer and at the auction market. This covers everything from the range of varieties available to issues on food safety and workplace conditions. Our database contains records on all the producers' technical interventions to ensure optimum traceability. We are justifiably proud of being the smallest farming country with the most important quality label, serving our producers, highly efficient trades people. We owe our renown to the fact that the best chefs in Belgium and abroad are increasingly choosing our products."
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