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Portugal : Rich lands and authentic savours
With its diversity and the many influences exercised throughout its long history, Portugal is a country that takes tradition and authenticity seriously. It is a land of savours with very marked differences and its gastronomy is both generous and varied.
On the western edge of the Iberian Peninsula, facing the Atlantic shore, Portugal has 10.5 million inhabitants for a surface area of 91,980 km2. The population density (107 inhabitants per km2) is higher in the coastal areas, north of Lisbon. Madeira and the Azores are autonomous regions belonging to Portugal, located in the North Atlantic. With the influence of the ocean, Lusitanian agriculture is the least irrigated of Mediterranean agricultures.
Agriculture and the food processing industry
Agriculture represents about 2.5% of GDP with 3.7 million hectares. It is very broken up and occupies 40% of the country’s surface area. There are 324,000 farms with 20% specialized in mixed farming and 11% in wine growing. While agriculture and fishing still employ 13% of the working population, they only generate 3.6% of GDP now (25% in 1960). The economically strong sectors are Porto wine, cork (the world’s largest producer with 145,000 tons in 2005), processed tomatoes, fruit and vegetables, wine and olive oil, which has a production of roughly 382,000 hectolitres.
Olive oil consumption is high in Portugal at 7.5 litres per capita compared to the European average of 4.8 litres. Located in Tras-Os-Montes and Alentejo, olive production reached 385,000 tons in 2005, of which 97% is used to produce olive oil. Cereals are among the large-scale farm productions (maize 513,000 tons, rice 121,000 tons, wheat 82,000 tons).
Fruit and vegetables
The fruit and vegetable productions amounted to €3.7 billion in 2005. The vegetable sector (€1.47 billion), as large as that of fruit, contributes 6% of total farming income. Other than potatoes (576,000 tons), two thirds of the farm production comes from cabbages (198,000 tons), tomatoes (99,000 tons), carrots, lettuces and sweet peppers. Two thirds of fruit production (€1.55 billion in total) is composed of apples, oranges and pears. Converted fruit and vegetables contribute 5% of the food processing industry income (€11 billion). The Ribatejo region is the largest for fruit and vegetable production (Rocha pear). The Algarve is the main citrus producing region with 72% of the national production (313,000 tons over 26,410 hectares). For dried fruit, the Tras-Os-Montes region in the north-east represents 80% of the total production.
Consumption of fresh fruit is very high with 198 kg/year/inhabitant (apple, orange, grape, peach and pear). Consumption of fresh vegetables is 137 kg/year/inhabitant (cabbage, lettuce, carrot, turnip, onion). Livestock production is rising and now represents 41% of the final farm production compared to 35% in 2004. The production is split between: pig (339,000 tons), poultry (201,000 tons) and cattle (105,000 tons). The quality meat products include: - the porco pata negra (black pig fed on mast), - beef (from the Minho, unique in the world), - the goats and sheep of Serra da Estrella (rare species).
Dairy products
The dairy products market is worth €1.2 billion (2005) and the volumes are increasing (956,000 tons). With roughly 300 companies, the dairy industry represents 4% of the food processing sector. Milk production (2 million tons) comes from cow’s milk (95%), ewe’s milk (4.7%) and goat’s milk (1.3%). It is mostly concentrated in the Entre Douro e Minho region (35%) and the Azores region (27%). The total cheese production comes to 56,000 tons with 76% based on cow’s milk. The ewe and goat’s cheeses respectively account for 22% and 1.5%. Yoghurt consumption has increased fourfold in ten years, going from 5 kg to 20.7 kg/year/inhabitant.
The most sought after Portuguese cheeses are the ewe and goat’s cheeses. They are produced in a region in between three rivers, the Mondego to the north, the Sado to the south and the Guadiana to the east. Traditionally made, the most famous are: - queijo da serra (soft ewe’s cheese from Serra de Estrella, brushed rind, infused with thistle flowers), - lsantarém (small ewe’s cheese from Ribatejo, preserved in olive oil), - azeitao (from the region of the same name, ewe’s milk, brushed rind, runny centre), - serpa (astonishing ewe’s milk cheese, brushed rind, brushed with olive oil and shaded with mild paprika, firm centre dotted with small holes, strong, spicy taste), - cabreiro (goat’s cheese from the Castelo Branco region, fresh, salted centre that becomes hard and spicy after eight days of ripening).
Seafood
Portugal is a large consumer of aquatic products (57 kg/year/inhabitant including about 35 kg of cod and hake) ranked 3rd in the world after Japan and Iceland. However, local fishing is limited in relation to domestic demand and the country imports 80% of its requirements. The sector accounts for 1% of the national GDP. Fishing volumes rose to 223,652 tons in 2006, against 219,325 for the previous year and 209,051 tons in 2003 (5% of fish caught in EU-27, and ranked 12th among countries with a fishing industry). The catches are broken down between fresh (91%) and frozen (9%). They are composed of fresh seawater fish (87.5%), molluscs (11.7%) and shellfish (0.6%). The principal species fished are sardine, cod, scad, mackerel, rose-fish, scabbard-fish, monkfish, octopus, tuna, skate and hake. The small deep-sea fish account for 40% of the total haul. Conversion holds an important position with €900 million in turnover and 166,500 tons (39% frozen products, 35% salted/dried products mostly cod, 26% canned, especially tuna and sardines).
Marine aquaculture is helped by natural factors, such as 2,800 km of coastline with Madeira and the Azores plus numerous estuary and lagoon areas. In 2005, the production came to 6,484 tons (bass, daurade and clams). The main production area for marine species is the Algarve, to the south. The north is specialized in the production of rainbow trout. In 2005, there were 1,472 fish farms inventoried. Seafood products represent 17% of the Portuguese budget for food.
The wine list
Unique and distinctive, Portuguese wines are very famous. The foremost is Porto or port wine, a sweet wine produced on the slate-rich hillsides of the Douro valley. The five main types of Porto are: - tawny port (blend of ruby and white port wine aged for two or three years maximum in oak casks), - tawny port with age label (blend of several port wines from different years, aged for 10 to 30 years, or even 40 years) - ruby port (young, fruity, aged for two years in the cask before bottling), - white port (less alcoholic, available as extra dry, dry or sweet), - vintage port (vintage from the best vineyards, two years in the cask, aged in the bottle, matured 20 years and over, long conservation wine, it must be registered with the port wine institute to be called vintage).
Some other port wines are crusted port, colheita, late bottled vintage, etc. Madeira, a sweet wine (red and white) from the island of the same name is made from several grape varieties (Malmsey, Bual, Verdello, Sercial and Tinta Negra Mole). It is broken down into finest (3 years old), vintage (from a single grape variety, aged for 20 years or more in oak casks) and reserve (5, 10, 15 years). The best red wines are produced in the Dao, Douro and Alentejo regions. They are powerful, concentrated wines (cocoa, liquorice and spice aromas) aged in casks. Among the white wines, the most famous is the vinho verde (sparkling, sharp, slightly lemony). The wines from the Bairrada and Bucelas regions are refined and vivid. Setubal Moscatel, a sweet wine made from three Muscat grape varieties is powerful and intense .
The gastronomic card
The gastronomy is rich and varied and due in part to the famous seafarer, Vasco de Gama, who brought back new flavours and varied products from his numerous voyages (spices, cereals, seeds, fruit, citrus fruit, etc.). Today, some great chefs like Vitor Sobral, Helio Loureiro and Joao Rodrigues are adding to its reputation. The shredded cabbage soup (caldo verde) is very popular in the country, along with snails (caracois). Salted and dried cod is the symbolic dish (bacalhau) for which there are 600 recipes. The other fish and seafood are eaten plain or cooked with an açorda (soup with bread, garlic and coriander). Grilled sardines are also very popular.
As regards meat, the Portuguese enjoy cabrito assado (roast kid), leitao assado (roast suckling pig), carne de porco à alentejana (marinated, spiced pork, red pepper and clams), bife à potuguesa (fried steak with a port sauce), espetadas (brochettes of beef marinated in wine and garlic and cooked on laurel branches), presuntos (smoked ham), paios et salpicoes (sausages) and tripas à moda do porto (tripe with port). The Portuguese eat a lot of eggs that are prepared in many recipes, including a very sweet dessert (ovos moles). They also like rice in all its forms, including arroz doce (rice pudding). Among other sweets and sweetmeats, there are toucinho do ceu (egg yolks and suger), pasteis de nata (marzipan) and pao de rala (almond paste and white candied pumpkin ). (source : AICEP, Turismo de Portugal, Portugalmania, , French embassy in Portugal, Ubifrance)
Francis Duriez
« Today, Portugal has shifted towards great gastronomy because of its wealth of products and the growing number of distinguished chefs ».
Térésa Moura - (Director General of A.I.C.E.P.)
Pro reviews
Bernardino Machado
(General Manager of Machado Mondexport – Rungis and Lyon)
« As specialists in Portuguese food products, we are present on the Rungis and Lyon Markets. We market all products intended for the Portuguese community (about 1.4 million Portuguese in France) and our flagship products are above all salted and dried cod, port wine, olive oil and Portuguese beers. Copious and healthy, Portuguese cooking is made with fresh products. However, it is more traditional than gastronomic. It is starting to become known and the future looks promising with the advent of some good chefs ».
Fernando Moura
(General Manager of the Portugues restaurant Saudade in Paris)
« The restaurant has been in business for thirty years and I’ve been here for twenty. We received the grand diplôme d’honneur award from the National Gastronomy Committee in 1988. The restaurant serves good quality Portuguese cuisine and our clientele is half Portuguese and half French, who come for the cod especially. We propose typical Portuguese dishes (bacalhau, filet mignon of marinated pork sautéed with clams, roasted suckling pig, the pasteis de nata or small cream-filled tarts). We serve more fish than meat here. The dishes are accompanied by a wonderful list of Portuguese wines including the great port wines, excellent vinho verde and some superb Madeira. Don’t forget that Portugal is the world’s 7th largest wine producing country. Portuguese gastronomy is generous and the quality is good, but it is still not very well known. Based on excellent products, it is very distinctive, representative and quite varied. Many of the recipes involved were invented by ancient convents and that’s why we call it convent cuisine. ».
Térésa Moura
(Director General of A.I.C.E.P.)
« AICEP – the Portuguese Agency for Investment and Overseas Trade – is responsible for promoting Portugal’s products, especially agricultural products and food products. Agriculture is focused on greater qualitative value compared to the last few decades. The most flourishing sectors are wine (many of great quality and top-of-the-range) with the internationally famous port, as well as Madeira and some great grape varieties. There is also the fruit and vegetable sector, citrus fruit and olives, the seafood sector with particularly fresh, varied products (many fish including salted and dried cod, crustaceans and shellfish) and the dairy products sector (a large number of ewe and goat’s cheeses, fresh or ripened). Within this broad group, we are also seeing a significant increase in organic products. Our food processing sector as a whole represents slightly less than 12% of our total production. For the most part, Portuguese products are consumed by the domestic market and mostly fresh produce. Today, Portugal can look forward to great gastronomy thanks to its wealth of products and growing number of famous chefs ».
Alberto Alves
(Director General of Le Portugal des Saveurs)
« As a distributor of Portuguese products, our specificity is essentially liquids, namely wines (vinho verde, port), salted and dried cod, etc. 60% of our clientele is Portuguese and our turnover is done with local authorities, hotels and restaurants (80%) and large and medium-sized retailers (20%). Our flagship products are the wines, such as vinho verde, Douro and Porto wines. The French are the largest consumers of port wine in quantity and are starting to be interested in the top-of-the-range ports, highly valued in Anglo-Saxon countries. Portuguese cuisine is based on typical regional dishes made from fresh, traditional products. Today, upmarket restaurant menus are emerging in Portugal, prepared by talented young chefs who focus on the wealth of Portuguese produce, earning an international reputation for some ».
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