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The Alsace : where the home soil nurtures outstanding local producee

The French Alsace region, at only 8,280 km², might be the smallest of the 22 regions, but it carries a heavyweight reputation…

Bordering Germany and Switzerland, it has two departments (the Bas-Rhin lies to the north, the Haut-Rhin in the south) and three big cities. Strasburg, the capital of the Bas-Rhin department, is also capital of the Alsace region and capital seat of Europe’s parliamentary institutions, hosting the Council of Europe, the European Parliament, and the European Court of Human Rights. Colmar, the administrative capital of the Haut-Rhin rich in art and history, is also the capital of the Alsace wines. Rounding up the trio, busy subprefecture Mulhouse, which draws crowds to its many museums, is axed towards science and culture...

A high-performance agricultural sector...

The Alsace has a total cultivated area of around 340,000 hectares, half of which is dedicated to large-scale cereal and oil crop production or pastureland. Furthermore, the surface area of cultivated land is on the increase. Agriculture in the Alsace draws on a semi-continental climate, with hot summers (the Alsace regions posts some of the highest sunshine-hour figures for their latitude) and cold winters, usually with plenty of snowfall. The relatively low precipitation makes for good fruit and vegetable production and is ideal for wine-growing. In the Alsace, the per-head yield from agriculture is higher than the national average.

Cereal crops cover around 180,000 hectares of farmland (including 130,000 hectares of corn, i.e. 9% of national production). The Bas-Rhin produces the entire French national l production of hops, which are channelled into the brewery industry or go to export. It is also national runner-up on Tobacco production, just behind the Dordogne.
Cabbage for choucroute (it takes two kilos or cabbage to make a kilo of choucroute) is a major farm crop in the Alsace. Alsace-based production of choucroute, at over 60,000 tons, weighs in at 75% of national production. Damsons are yet another specifically Alsace-based farm crop, along with Mirabelle plums which also hold pride of place. Livestock farming, which is now relatively scarce in the Alsace, is traditionally centred in Sundgau, the ‘Alsace bossue’, and the Vosges valleys. While cattle-farming is waning, it is becoming more intensive, with an average of 58 heads per farm. Pig farming is holding steady, while poultry farming has doubled in output .

Exception winelands...

The Alsace winelands (96% white wine) stretch over 170 km or so of the eastern foothills of the Vosges, from Thann to Marlenheim, plus the Wissenbourg pocket. Around 16,000 is devoted to viniculture, 15,300 of which for AOC production (reaching 1.2 million hectolitres per year). Wine represents 40% of Alsatian agricultural production, 19% of French national AOC white wine production (excluding sparkling wines), and 38 million bottles on the export market. The hot, dry (low precipitation), sun-drenched Alsatian climate is ideally suited to excellent grape maturation. All the Alsatian wines figure under one of three ‘AOC’ controlled origin labels: - AOC Alsace: 78% of the region’s output. Wines named AOC Alsace are generally produced from the big seven varieties: Sylvaner, Pinot blanc, Riesling, Muscat d’Alsace, Pinot gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot noir (which is the only variety produced as reds or rosés).

- Alsace Grand Cru AOC (plus the name of one of the 51 separate terroirs accepted under the appellation): accounts for 4% of total production, and crystallizes just how wines can be strongly terroir-driven. There are only four varieties authorized under this AOC: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot gris and Muscat d’Alsace.
- Crémant d’Alsace AOC (a sparkling wine made to traditional methods): covering 18% of total Alsace wine production, this AOC is awarded to sparkling wines made to the traditional method of bottle fermentation. The majority of Crémant d’Alsace wines are either single variety or blended whites. The only varieties authorized are Pinot blanc, Riesling, Pinot gris, Pinot noir (only the blanc de noir white wines produced from black grapes) and Chardonnay. The rosé versions are produced from Pinot noir.
Labels such as ‘late-harvested’ and ‘séléction de grains nobles’ (wines made from noble-rot berries) are only given to four varieties: Riesling, Muscat d’Alsace, Pinot gris, Gewurztraminer. These labels are a sign of outstanding wines produced to some of the strictest of all French AOC criteria.

Outstanding wines…

Alsatian wines are always marketed in the regulatory emblematic tall, tapering bottles. Riesling, which covers 20% of the region’s vineyards, is a long-maturing variety that gives a dry, racy, fruit wine that is elegantly perfumed with mineral, floral notes. Excellent vin de garde (for ageing), it rates among the world's best white varieties. Pinot blanc (20% of the region’s vineyards), is soft, white, fresh and fairly full-bodied thirst-quencher. It is one of the ingredients in the only Alsatian blended wine, Edelzwicker. Gewurztraminer (from the German gewürz: spicy), which covers 20% of the region’s vineyards, is the most famous of the Alsace wines. Pungent, heady, and intensely aromatic, it develops rich fruity (likened to mango and lychee), rose-flowered, and spicy scents.

Sylvaner (from 35% down to 14% of the region’s vineyards) is another modest wine, light, fresh, and subtly fruity. It also figures in the Edelzwicker blend. Pinot gris (until recently labelled Tokay) is in fact a Burgundy variety, but still covers 8% of the Alsatian vineyards. Relatively full-bodied, with a long finish, and fairly unmistakeable with its slightly smoky woody notes. The Muscat grape (there are two types, both of which only produce dry whites) is intensely aromatic with a classic, pronounced dried fruit taste. Pinot noir (covering 9% of the region’s vineyards) is a Burgundy variety that produces light, aromatic, cherry-flavoured reds and rosés that are oak-aged to give ‘body’. Sector professionals unanimously agree that the 2007 harvests will be top class.

Quality beers and fruit brandies...

The Alsace produces 40% of all French beer (12 million hectolitres), making it the nation’s leading brewing region, hence the importance of its hop plantations. Over the last decade, a number of brands have fought back to the forefront, selling quality ales with strong identity. Ale, mainly pale ale, white beer, lager, dark ale, ‘Bière de mars’ (spring beer), Christmas beer, ‘amer-bière’ (a bitter), remains a staunch favourite, particularly in the Bas-Rhin. The first Alsatian brewery was set up next to Strasbourg cathedral back in 1260. The beer industry had its heyday in the second half of the nineteenth century, driven by technical advances made in malting and brewing. From the 200-odd operating at the time, there are now only a dozen breweries left (all in the Bas-Rhin).

Hop-growing in France is not exclusively centred in the Alsace, essentially at Kochersberg north of Brumath in the Wantzenau region. Alsace boasts a flurry of fruit brandies. The classics include kirsch (wild-cherry alcohol), Mirabelle, damson, greengage, walnut… along with marcs (pomace brandies) and schnaps.

A wealth of cuisine for indulgent food-lovers...

The exceptional wealth and quality of Alsatian cuisine is well worth its reputation, and the region has bred thirty-odd Michelin-starred chefs (including Emile Yung and Antoine Westermann at Strasbourg, Marc Haeberlin at Illhauser, Hubert Maetz at Rosheim...). Alsatian cuisine is a fine reflection of the region, blending traditional cooking based on local produce with the audacity and inventiveness of today’s contemporary gastronomy. Winstubs (literally ‘wine rooms’) are the kind of warm, friendly taverns serving authentic local dishes that so typify Alsatian restaurants. The region boasts several widely-renowned dishes and products. Choucroute, the hallmark of Alsatian cooking, is cooked, prepared and served in various ways, all characteristic of their home region. It is generally served with cold meats (frankfurters, liver sausage, ham shank, bacons, pork chops, etc.), and sometimes with goose or duck. A salmon choucroute is an authentic ancient dish in Alsatian cuisine. Goose foie gras, an absolute must-try in Alsace gastronomy, is eaten warm with grapes and pippin apples at Christmas.

Alsace asparagus, which has been farmed since the XVIth century, is traditionally served with three sauces (mayonnaise, French dressing, and Hollandaise) and ham. The bäckeoffe is a farmhouse-type stew of potatoes and three different meats marinated in white Alsace wine and cooked in a casserole dish. Bredle is the name given to a whole range of biscuits and caked served at Christmas. Bretzel, a baked bread snack folded into a knot-like shape sprinkled with sea salt, dates from the XIIth century and is the flagship product among Alsatian pastries. Coq au Riesling is a creamy Alsace version of the coq au vin (deglazed in local Riesling wine) and served with spätzles (Alsace pasta). Flammekueche is a flame-grilled tart made with a pizza-like dough and topped with cream plus cottage cheese, lardoons and onions, or apples, damsons and cinnamon for the sweet version. Knack, a Strasbourg sausage, is served in pairs. Kougelhopf, leavened dough baked in a special mould (a grooved and ribbed cone with a hollowed out centre) can be sweet (raisins and almonds) or savoury (lardoons and walnuts). Munster is a soft-ripened, rind-washed cheese that is eaten either straight or with added cumin. Spätzles are pasta obtained from piecing out a very thin dough mixture. Streussel is a cake covered in a mixture of butter, sugar, flour and cinnamon. Strudel, which was originally an Austrian sweet made from thin-stretched pastry, is stuffed with apples, raisins, almonds and spices. (Sources: Alsace Region, CIVA, CRT Alsace, Librairie Gourmande, CNAC)
Francis Duriez

Quelques réactions de professionnels

Adrien Zeller
(President of the Alsace Regional Council)

«Close on 340,000 hectares, i.e. 41% of the Alsace region is agricultural land. Agriculture generates 2.2% of the region's GDP, and 4.4% of the region’s jobs depend on farming and the agrifoods business, which are essential to the region. Agriculture also strongly enhances our attractiveness and public image (landscapes, regional produce, events, etc.). Our region-led policy for action over the 2007-2013 period is: - to support the development of diversified, quality-driven sectors, while making sure that production meets quality specifications and is inspected by an independent certification body; - to support farming in the mountain areas, by creating value for traditional local produce in sectors where agriculture is struggling; - to develop the deployment of quality-driven policies by partnering farmers on organic certification and supporting the ‘Alsace Qualité’ initiative (‘Alsace Qualité’ is an association created by the Chamber of Agriculture to help different farming sectors implement consumer- and producer-validated specifications); - to promote the widespread implementation of environmentally-friendly farming practices (alternatives to plant-health agents, especially in the wine-growing sector). The gastronomic heritage of the Alsace is one of our primary concerns. It starts with a gastronomy anchored in regional culinary traditions: cold meat delicacies, winstubs, alcoholic beverages, fruit brandies, game, etc. There is also the fine-dining aspect. The Alsace is one of the regions that boasts the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants. Marc Haeberlin at Illhaeusern, one of the oldest 3-stars restaurants in France, plus Le Crocodile in Strasbourg, and many others.

Our gastronomy was born in this line of traditional, family-run hotel and restaurant establishments, and has been supported by the Alsace Region for over a decade.Our regional gastronomy is also championed by ‘Les Étoilés d'Alsace’, a hardworking association of restauranteurs and food-industry producers that showcases our region at shows, fairs and international events, including the Albertville Winter Olympics and operations in Japan and the States. On a more local scale, our restauranteurs and head chefs are fighting to defend quality, with the implementation of the “Alsace Qualité, l’Art et la Manière” label system. This Certiqual quality certification body originally spanned the Alsace, Franche-Comté and Rhône-Alpes regions. It is the Alsace region that implemented and promoted the system. The restaurant business draws its wealth of talent from initial and continuous training. This is why the Alsace Region gave support on creating and running a series of major training centres. These centres, which are run in collaboration with industry professionals, have become references in their fields ».

Pro reviews

Antoine Boucomont
(Director of Le Delas – Rungis)

« The Alsace is an eminently gastronomic region boasting a wide range of traditional local produce (cold meats, pastries, pasta, cheese, beer, wine, delicatessen produce, and more) including some widely-reputed top-of-the-range specialities. All the products we deal in, including the famous choucroute in all its versions, are produced in the Alsace. Our Alsatian range covers a little over a hundred products. These products go out to two core customer segments: either butchers and delicatessen butchers, or restaurants and outside caterers. Alsace produce accounts for a little over 5% of our business. The Alsace region boasts a rich gastronomic heritage steeped in tradition, of which we are proud to be a cornerstone ».

Daniel Charle
(Managing Director of Masse – Strasbourg National Heritage Market)

« Our company employs a dozen staff and we sell the full range of high-class delicatessen party foods. I’m from the Alsace, and I can assure you that the region produces top-quality produce. Our core business is goose foie gras, especially the uncooked product. We serve a large number of Michelin-starred chefs. The Alsace created the first foie gras terrines under Louis XVI. However, the traditional choucroute will never be usurped as the flagship of Alsatian gastronomy, although the four-fish choucroute has become a popular classic. Alsatian cuisine is rich and varied, and the Alsace region is widely reputed as a gastronomic centre. It has a strong identity and boasts international renown ».

Dany Moncouyoux
(Butcher, cold-meats and deli at Palaiseau Station – Essonne)

« In our store, you will find all the classic butchery and cold meat products, but we also stock a large number of specialties from the Alsace that we began selling in response to the Mad Cow scare. Together with my husband Christian, we decided to win back the customers lost to the scare. Since I’m actually from the Alsace, we launched with bæckeoffe, the classic Alsace casserole, and it was an instant hit. We now sell a hundred-odd products, all farmhouse-made in the Alsace. They are the kind of really tasty products that you won’t ever find in the supermarkets. We discovered our producers during our winter holidays in the Alsace. We are also registered purveyors of a range of kitchen tools manufactured in the Alsace. Ever since we registered on the Chaville Chamber of Commerce and Industry, customers have been flooding in, from all kinds of places ».

Frédéric Aldebert
(CEO of Convergence Achats – subsidiary of Flo Group and Eurodisney)

« The Flo group’s numerous restaurant chains include two specifically dedicated to Alsace cuisine: Bofinger and the Brasserie Flo. This initiative was driven by founder Jean-Paul Bucher, who was born in Molsheim. Everything in these instantly charming establishments in Alsatian through and through. The menu, of course, with an array of choucroute dishes, but also the interior design, particularly at Bofinger, which in Paris is a legendary address on the Alsace cuisine map. It should be highlighted that we source all of our produce from Alsatian suppliers. Alsatian cuisine has always remained true to itself, which is why the Parisians love it so much. Over a third of our menu is typically Alsatian dishes. Alsatian cuisine is undeniably a reference, with dedicated professionals providing authentic produce… ».

Jean-Nicolas Schaeffer
(President of the CIVA and Alsace-based producer-trader)

« I am an Alsace-based producer-trader and President of the Alsace Wine Trades Board. I grow wine on 20 hectares around Dalmach, where I produce a Frankstein grand cru used to make Gewurztraminer and Riesling. The Alsace vineyards, although not particularly extensive, are really top quality. The region boasts around 15,000 hectares of vineyard, producing 1.2 million hectolitres, i.e. 80 hectolitres per hectare. The Alsace in fact sells its entire production volumes. Wine, here, is not a job, it’s an art. Just follow the 120 km-long wine route from Harlenheim down to Thann, taking a detour to catch the Wissembourg pocket, and you’ll see why. There has been a consumer shift in Alsace wine. We are repositioning our brand image to quality criteria. Indeed, our strategy is axed towards flawless product quality. The specificity of the Alsace, and a key asset, is that we make particularly aromatic wines that are currently sought after, especially since in branding terms it is easy to understand our wines because the grape varieties double up as our appellations. The overall reputation of Alsace wines is further enhanced by the outstanding quality of the sparkling Crémant d’Alsace. The 2007 vintage is a huge success for Alsace wines, as the weather held enough to enable quality late harvests and pick from a fine selection of noble-rot berry. We’re lucky to have such a wonderful terroir… ».

Pascal Jan
(Director of the association Alsace Qualité)

« Our association – one of the first in France – was set up in 1991 in response to the needs of agricultural trade organizations. Our mission is to partner farming and agrifoods enterprise, and more generally to act as a cross-sector hub supporting quality-driven initiatives. In the Alsace, there are a dozen or so different food sectors that are committed to quality labelling initiatives, i.e. twenty or so products (including Alsace pasta, Alsace poultry, Alsace wines, Munster cheese, plus fruit and vegetables, honey, organic milk, single cream, meat and cold meats, geraniums, bread, choucroute) sporting an official quality mark (PGI, AOC, label Rouge, organically farmed produce, CQC). In the Alsace, we proactively champion quality policy, essentially through a sector-based system. Over half of the products farmed in the Alsace are produced to specifications (compared to 30% nationally). Our actions are also structured through a major collective communication campaign (signing, trade shows, in-store promotional initiatives). Quality is a cornerstone of our produce, at the intersection between professional, industrial expectations and regional policy… ».

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