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Aquitaine : Excellent resources and gastronomy

Aquitaine is one of the most famous regions due to the wealth of its resources and its good weather, while its gastronomy is based on a know-how anchored in tradition, yet constantly enhanced

Aquitaine, which means “land of water” (from the Latin aquitania), is France’s third largest metropolitan region in terms of size (41,309 km2). It includes 5 departments: the Dordogne, Gironde, Landes, Lot-et-Garonne and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. It has a varied, parcelled relief. To the west, the coastline extends for 275 kilometres, indented by the Arcachon basin. To the south, the Pyrenees mountain chain marks the border with Spain. The principal rivers are the Adour, Baïse, Dordogne, Garonne and Lot. It has a temperate climate, tending towards oceanic. With a GDP equal to 4.5% of national wealth (€14 billion annual turnover), Aquitaine is ranked in sixth place. Agriculture, forestry and fishing play a major role in the regional economy.

 

An important agriculture

Aquitaine is France’s leading farming region with a turnover of €5 billion, representing 10% of national value added. The UAA (used agricultural area) totals 1.6 million hectares and it has roughly 50,000 farms. Nearly 10% of the working population works for the farming sector, whereas the national average is 4%. Its temperate oceanic climate, the diversity of the primarily sedimentary soils (soft sandstone, clayey marl) have encouraged the development of food crops, particularly cereals (54% of land); maize is the major crop, with three million tons annually, two thirds of which are exported, the remainder being used locally in animal feeds. It is also the largest tobacco growing region with 6,600 tons/per annum. Moreover, Aquitaine has a vast forestry capital of 1.8 million hectares, representing 43% of the region’s territory. The forestry/wood sector is a pillar of the economy, with 30,000 jobs and a turnover of €2.6 billion.

The Landes de Gascogne area is devoted to growing maritime pine and covers 1 million hectares. The Dordogne-Garonne coniferous and primarily broad-leaved forests (oak, chestnut, walnut, poplar) cover 530,000 hectares, whereas the Adour-Pyrenees forests (oak, beech, fir) cover 280,000 hectares.
Organic agriculture in Aquitaine represents 950 farmers, a turnover of €150 million (+30% in 2008), an area of 26,000 hectares with cereals (30%), poultry (in 2nd place nationally), wine (3rd place) and fruit and vegetables (4th place).
The food industry sector (in 5th place nationally) is the region’s largest industrial employer with about 30,000 employees and 500 companies, for a turnover of €5.8 billion (excluding wine) with 15% exported.

A major animal husbandry region

Aquitaine is a historic animal husbandry region with a large cattle population spread throughout the territory. In 2007, it totalled 808,000 head, with 120,000 dairy cows, 260,000 suckler cows and 246,000 calves.
Three great cattle breeds have made Aquitaine famous. The Blonde d’Aquitaine (Label Rouge in 1991) gives a tender, tasty marbled beef and its production has now gone national. Boeuf de Chalosse (Label Rouge 1991, IGP in 1996) is fattened on maize in the Chalosse plains. Bœuf de Bazas (Label Rouge in 1997), after grazing for several years in the Landes pastures, is slaughtered at no more than 36 months.
Veal from suckled calves (first cattle Label Rouge obtained in 1971) is produced by traditional farming. Fed solely on mother’s milk, the meat is very tender, with a slight hazelnut flavour.

The sheep population totals 750,000 head, with 600,000 ewes (mostly in the Pyrenees - Atlantiques) placing the region in 2nd place nationally. The production is top quality as shown by the number of suckling lambs with Label Rouge certification: Périgord lamb, Pauillac lamb (Gironde, IGP), suckling lamb from the Pyrenees (Manech red and black head and Béarnaise breeds, 400,000 lambs produced with 85% exported).
Aquitaine ranks in 1st place nationally for suckling lamb production and ranks 2nd for ewe’s milk production.
Goat farming represents 38,000 head, with 23,000 goats.
Pig farming represents 464,000 head (including 193,000 pigs for fattening, 126,000 young pigs, 104,000 piglets and 41,000 sows). Young pigs from the South-West fed mainly on cereals (including grain-fed and farmhouse pigs) are used to make Bayonne ham and other salted meats from the South West. The Basque pig raised outdoors has a marbled meat that is in great demand for ham production.

Quality poultry

Poultry totals 19 million head, including 8.3 million broiler chickens and 5.6 million ducks. Aquitaine is the leading producer of foie gras palmipeds in the world (9,000 tons/year, with 85% certified IGP), and ranks 2nd for broiler poultry, half of which is produced under a quality label. The farmhouse poultry from the Landes department (Label Rouge in 1965 and IGP in 1998), bred outdoors, has a firm, relatively lean meat. The region numbers 14.5 million fowl (including 7 million yellow-breasted) for 600 farmers. The Landes department is the 2nd largest Label Rouge production basin.

Gascony poultry (Label Rouge, IGP), famous since the days of Henri IV, are bred outdoors and fed on cereals. They represent 17 million head for 1,400 producers. The poultry from Perigord (1st French Label Rouge in 1965) has a firm, juicy meat. It is raised outdoors and fed on cereals. The production is 5 million head/per annum.

Large fruit and vegetable production

Fruit and vegetable farming represents 11% of regional farm produce earnings (€484 million turnover in 2005), totalling 3,800 permanent jobs and 30,000 seasonal jobs. The cultivated area represents 40,000 hectares for vegetable production and 27,000 hectares for fruit production. The Lot-et-Garonne department alone accounts for 45% of the regional production in money terms.
The principal fruit and vegetables from Aquitaine include:
- sand-grown carrots (169,000 tons) produced in the humus-bearing sandy area of the Landes department;
- asparagus (5,000 tons) including the sand asparagus from the Landes department and Blayais asparagus (grown in the humus-bearing soil of the Gironde department);
- tomatoes are cultivated in the Marmande basin (74,300 tons). They are hardy, firm and very fragrant;
- Espelette pepper (only AOC spice) groups 130 producers in ten villages (south east of Bayonne) for a volume of 68 tons of certified ground pepper;

- Perigord strawberries (IGP in 2004, Mara des bois, Gariguette, Cirafine, Charlotte, etc.) are exclusively cultivated in open fields in the Dordogne. The production is 8,000 tons for 200 producers. The strawberries from Lot-et-Garonne (13,000 tons) are Label Rouge for the Gariguette and Ciflorette varieties.- greengages (green or golden) produced in Lot-et-Garonne (Label Rouge) represent 3,000 tons;
- Perigord walnuts (AOP in 2002) represent 2,439 tons. They group four varieties (Franquette, Marbot, Corne, Grandjean);
- the Adour kiwi (IGP) was introduced at the foot of the Pyrenees thirty years ago, and represents 25% of national production with 20,000 tons;
- Agen prunes (IGP in 2002) are made from the Ente plum by age-old methods. 65% of the production (50,000 tons/year) comes from the Lot-et-Garonne department;
- chestnuts (3,000 tons, 30% of French volumes) are split between the Lot-et-Garonne and Dordogne departments.

Renowned fish products

Aquitaine’s geographical location makes it a good region for fishing and aquaculture. This sector represents 1,100 companies (50% fishing businesses), 4,700 jobs, 400 vessels, 2,000 seamen – on sea and river - and a turnover of €163 million not including direct sales. Running from the Gironde to the Pays Basque department, the fishing sector breaks down into three distinct fishing areas: Basque and South-Landes, Arcachon and the Adour and Gironde estuaries.
Traditional saltwater fishing is concentrated around the ports of Saint-Jean-de-Luz/Ciboure, Cap Breton and Arcachon.
The nine top species are hake, monkfish, mackerel, Germon tuna, sardine, sole, scad, anchovy and tuna.

Saltwater fishing represents 13,000 tons per annum, while freshwater fishing represents 600 tons.
The shellfish activity mostly involves oyster farms, where production is centralized in the Arcachon basin, with about 550 hectares of oyster beds, 350 companies, a thousand jobs and a production of over 10,000 tons of oysters plus the largest producer of spat.
Aquitaine is also France’s largest fish-farming region. Spread over 130 sites, this activity has a production of 9,000 tons/year, including 8,600 Salmonidiae (25% of national production). The other special productions are farmed turbot (160 tons/year), penaeid shrimp (10 tons/year), trout, Aquitaine caviar, etc.

A remarkable wine-growing region

Wine-growing is Aquitaine’s number one agricultural production, playing a predominant, key role in the region’s economy. It concerns roughly 60,000 jobs (direct and indirect) at 16,000 wine-growing operations, over half of which are in the  Gironde department, 75 cooperative wine cellars and producers and 400 wine brokers. The Aquitaine vineyards represent the largest wine-growing area for fine wines in the world, covering 151,600 hectares, roughly 80% in the Gironde, with an average annual production of 7 million hectolitres. The wine and spirits sector represents over one third of the region’s food industry exports.
The region numbers over 80 AOC wines, including 57 in the Gironde. The fame of Aquitaine wines is inherent to the exceptional climatic and geological conditions and traditional know-how, coupled with innovative technologies.

The exceptional reputation of Bordeaux wines is based primarily on the region’s prodigious number of great vintage wines like Château Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac), Château Latour (Pauillac), Château Margaux (Margaux), Château Mouton- Rothschild (Pauillac), Château Haut-Brion (Pessac), Château Petrus (Pomerol) and many others.
Besides Bordeaux wines, Aquitaine also has a wealth of other controlled-origin wines like Bergerac, Monbazillac, Montravel, Pécharmant, Tursan, Buzet, Côtes de Duras, Béarn, Irouleguy, Jurançon, Madiran, Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh, etc. not to mention the eaux-de-vie from wines like Armagnac, Floc de Gascogne, Lillet (white or red) and liqueurs such as walnut liqueur and Izarra (yellow and green), etc.

Famous regional products

Aquitaine’s regional products are among the most famous. Well-known and appreciated throughout the world, the IGP-certified “duck foie gras from the South-West” is in itself an example of French art of living. Aquitaine is also the world’s leading producer of foie gras (mostly duck) and accounts for almost half the French production. Moreover, the region is known for its duck fillets (magret) and preserves and poultry delicacies. Another source of Aquitaine wealth is clearly the superb “black diamond from Perigord”, or truffle. This “miracle of nature” can be served in different ways and especially with foie gras. Another mushroom adding to the region’s reputation is the cep, which is the delight of all gourmets as the perfect accompaniment to traditional dishes.

Oysters from Arcachon and Aquitaine caviar (caviar farmed from the acipenser baeri species) also number among the top quality local products. The latter has even become one of the most famous in the world.
Aquitaine is also a great region for quality cooked meats with the famous Bayonne ham, (IGP, 9,000 tons), sausages and dried sausage from the South-West, blood sausages, crackling, pâtés and terrines. It is also very well known for its dairy products and excellent cheeses, such as Ossau-iraty (ewe’s milk), Cabécou from Perigord (small goat’s cheese), Tomme from the Pyrenees (cow’s milk) and ewe curds (a seasonal product), etc.

A first rate gastronomy

Gastronomy is well-established in Aquitaine and considered first rate in view of the region’s talented chefs and the quality of local dishes and recipes. The specialties include soups (garlic soup thickened with egg yolk (tourin), Bearnaise vegetable broth with goose (garbure), Basque fish soup, fish dishes (shad with sorrel, spicy elver (pibales), Medoc-style eel, Bordeaux-style lamprey, Bayonne-style cod, baby squid, etc.), foie gras recipes, Perigord magret and enchaud (pork preserves), meat (entrecôte bordelaise, Landes-style calf sweetbreads, Basque hachua or veal stew),

poultry (Basque chicken (poulet basquaise), Bearnaise casseroled chicken with vegetables (poule au pot), woodpigeon salmi, rabbit stew with prunes), game, plus piperade basquaise, cruchade landaise (corn mix), ceps à la bordelaise and fresh truffles en papillote (with bacon and goose fat). Lastly, the region is known for its excellent desserts, such as cannelés bordelais, Basque cake, tourtière landaise (pie with prunes), macaroons (from St-Emilion and St-Jean-de-Luz) and madeleine cakes from Dax.

Francis Duriez
(Source: AAPrA, Agreste, Conseil Régional d’Aquitaine, CNAC, Librairie Gourmande)


Pro reviews

Jean-Claude Bors
Crédit photo : FD

Jean-Claude Bors
(CEO of Deplanche-Laubeyrie – meat sector at Rungis)

“We are specialized in the major Blonde d’Aquitaine cattle breed, which might be described as a top-of-the-line breed; it accounts for 80% of our sales. This meat breed is really suited to traditional Parisian butchery. It is a thick, heavy-bodied breed, with a lot of muscles (550 kg carcase) and a very tender, relatively lean meat that is very popular with consumers. We work with the top professionals in the trade because Blonde d’Aquitaine cattle need to be fattened up slowly to produce excellent marbling. The best Blonde d’Aquitaine herds are found in the Pyrenees, which is where the breed originated. The professionals from the Aquitaine region have perfectly mastered how to raise this first rate cattle breed.”

 

Pascal Courtois
Crédit photo : FD

Pascal Courtois

(Commercial Manager - BGL Avigros – poultry sector at Rungis)

“We principally sell quality-label farmhouse poultry from the Aquitaine region and by-products like cuts. This represents about 40% of our volumes. The products come mainly from the Landes department (chicken, guineafowl, organic poultry, fresh duck, foie gras, magrets, etc.) and to a lesser extent the Gironde (oven-ready farmhouse chicken). Aquitaine is a wealthy region in terms of poultry farming, with a tradition and know-how that always supplies good quality products. It is a benchmark region with a good reputation, where the farmers and producers’ dedication remains intact. Furthermore, these products are well-positioned with the best retailers, whether poultry or general butchers or delicatessens.”

 

Dominique Graciet
Crédit photo : CRAA

Dominique Graciet
(President of the Aquitaine regional chamber of commerce and the chamber of agriculture of the Landes department)

“Agriculture and forestry are the main economic sectors of the Aquitaine region. It is the largest farming region in terms of turnover and jobs, and our farming population is three times bigger than the national average. At the start of the year, we launched a strategic farming project at regional level to rebuild a promising offer for the years ahead based on our assets, with the goal of understanding European and global market opportunities. It is also to check whether our management of production means is optimised.
Aquitaine is a magnificent table, comprised of a patchwork of regions, each of which has its place in the local, regional, national or even international market. Each region should naturally retain its identity while aiming for the region’s collective development, with no excessive segmentation of products under quality labels, so that this patchwork of regions can realize its full potential for all the farmers in the region.”

Frederic Ville
Crédit photo : FD

Frédéric Ville
(Commercial Director - Vinas – Fruit and Vegetable sector at Rungis)

“We mainly sell three great products from the Aquitaine region: the Landes sand carrot, Gariguette strawberries from Marmande and some Perigord strawberries, and asparagus from the Landes department, which are excellent products with quality labels.
The sand carrot is a top quality product, with a sweet flavour and no defects or rough patches, because it grows in sandy soil. The asparagus and strawberries are easy products to work with because of their recognized quality.
Aquitaine producers have a know-how, organization and set up that makes it easy for us to work with them. Aquitaine is definitely an important region with a wealth of quality products.”

Marc Monteleone
Crédit photo : FD

Marc Monteleone
(Business Manager of Masse – Rungis catering sector)

“We are specialized in the major Blonde d’Aquitaine cattle breed, which might be described as a top-of-the-line breed; it accounts for 80% of our sales. This meat breed is really suited to traditional Parisian butchery. It is a thick, heavy-bodied breed, with a lot of muscles (550 kg carcase) and a very tender, relatively lean meat that is very popular with consumers. We work with the top professionals in the trade because Blonde d’Aquitaine cattle need to be fattened up slowly to produce excellent marbling. The best Blonde d’Aquitaine herds are found in the Pyrenees, which is where the breed originated. The professionals from the Aquitaine region have perfectly mastered how to raise this first rate cattle breed.”

Guy Saint Martin
Crédit photo : AAPrA

Guy Saint-Martin
(Deputy Chairman of Association Aquitaine de Promotion Agroalimentaire)

“Aquitaine is a frontrunner for the title of leading French region by the number of quality local productions. It has been a pioneer in AOC certification since 1936 and in Label Rouge certification as of 1965. It has developed 14 IGP and AOP-certified products since 1992. 60% of professional farming operations produce under a quality label, for an annual turnover of €3 billion. Aquitaine has managed to combine tradition with modern practices and innovation, to maintain the region’s economic potential and tourism appeal at the same time. The region and its farmers launched an ambitious plan to modernize farms so they respect the environment. As a result, quality Aquitaine products are capable of satisfying the demands of buyers and consumers.
The regional council of Aquitaine opted to promote quality agriculture and organize producers into excellence networks, while supporting their development. In this context, the Association Aquitaine de Promotion Agroalimentaire (AAPrA) is implementing an overall communication plan involving all of these networks. On top of the many collective regional promotional actions (press relations, public trade shows, etc.), the AAPrA is therefore allocating over a million euros as a direct communication aid for 17 networks (Jambon de Bayonne, Ossau-Iraty, Pruneaux d’Agen, Volailles du Périgord, etc.). Furthermore, it is essential to help Aquitaine food companies develop. AAPrA proposes to accompany these companies when they go to visit markets that are occasionally far away, which is a considerable aid. In 2009, it assisted over 430 companies at over 18 national and international markets.

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