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Ile-de-France : a rich and diverse region

Ile-de-France is one of the largest urban centres in Europe as well as a major rural and farming region. This dual aspect gives it a specific originality and attractiveness. Similarly, this region's extensive historical heritage and vast know-how have built an international reputation.

Developed around Paris, Ile-de-France is one of the country's 26 regions and includes 8 departments grouping 1281 towns. It covers 12,012 km2, representing 2.2% of the national territory. The cradle of the Capet monarchy, it was divided into five departments after the Revolution, then reformed after 1945 with the Seine, Seine-et-Marne and Seine-et-Oise departments, before being expanded to eight departments in 1965. Around Paris, the Hauts-de-Seine, Seine-Saint-Denis and Val-de-Marne departments form what is known as the "petite couronne" or inner circle. The Val d'Oise, Yvelines, Essonne and Seine-et-Marne form the outer circle or "grande couronne". In 1976, the district of the Paris region became the Ile-de-France region. A victim of intense urban development, now restricted, Ile-de-France has lost 100,000 ha of arable land over the last fifty years. The region has the benefit of a temperate climate, which is open to oceanic and continental influences. Claimed by the sea 250 million years ago, its landscape is composed of a series of plains, plateaus overlooked by sandy hills and valleys. Originally sedimentary, its relief is characterized by the large number of basically flat surfaces. Located at the crossroads of European and global trade, Ile-de-France plays a dominant role in the domestic economy (29% of French GDP) and although about 83% of its value added comes from the service sector, it is still highly diversified.

A large agribusiness activity

The Ile-de-France agribusiness activity represents an economic sector of prime importance, with a market of 11 million consumers. With farmland covering 583,000 hectares (50% of the region’s surface area), agriculture is particularly developed in Seine-et-Marne (58% of the department). The sector includes about 5,600 farms, some 30,000 jobs and over a billion euros in turnover, with 35% in export. Located in the centre of the cereal-growing basin, Ile-de-France is traditionally a region with large farms, with soft wheat the flagship crop with 242,960 hectares, far ahead of colza (80,230 ha), barley (72,365 ha) and maize (28,007 ha).

Evenly spread over the areas with large farms, wheat represents 44% of the region’s total arable land. Barley is notably concentrated in the Gâtinais area, to the south of the region. Beet production represents 10% of the national harvest, with 40,170 ha, while the largest producers are the Seine-et-Marne Val d’Oise departments. Like most cereal-growing areas, Ile-de-France has little natural grazing land and is not a big region for animal husbandry.

Reputable animal husbandry

In 2007, cattle farming accounted for almost 32,500 head, including 7,240 dairy cows and 6,400 suckling cows, spread over 500 farms, with 350 breeders and fatteners. While the Prim’Holstein breed is the most prevalent, the suckling herd also includes Charolais, Limousin, Blonde d’Aquitaine and Salers breeds. Cattle farms are mostly to be found in the eastern Seine-et-Marne department, in the area where Brie cheese is produced, and in the Vexin department to the west.
Sheep farms accounted for 13,586 head, including 8,856 ewes spread over 500 farms. The Ile-de-France breed represents 43% of the region’s sheep population and is the result of a cross between Merino and English Dishley breeds. The goat population totals 1,883 head and the largest farms focus on producing milk or cheese.

Poultry represents 1.5 million head divided between a thousand producers. There are also 350 rabbit breeders.
The meat and cooked meats from Ile-de-France have a good reputation. They include Ile-de-France lamb (pale pink meat that is tender but firm), Gâtinais rabbit (also known as “lapin de chou”), chicken from Houdan (Label Rouge and IGP, fed on cereals, milk and cream, with a fine meat, a large crest, black plumage with white spots, red comb, etc.) and from Gâtinais (white plumage). Among the cooked meats specific to the region there is the black pudding from Paris (with onions), Paris ham (high quality cooked ham) and the Paris dry sausage (with garlic).

Quality vegetable productions

Covering 1,700 ha, market gardening accounts for 370 farms, 80 of whom sell their produce on the Rungis Market producers’ floor, and employs about 1,800 people. Ile-de-France holds first place for parsley (48% of domestic production), leek (30%), cress (44%) and radishes and second place for lettuces (170 ha farmed, 120,000 heads collected manually per day) and onions.
The region is known for its quality vegetable produce, such as asparagus from Argenteuil (varieties: early pink and late purple with large white shoots), button mushrooms from Paris (creamy white, grown in underground galleries), cress from Méréville (two varieties: the large green and large special blonde, a specialist production), the “chevrier” green bean (known as the Arpajon bean or dwarf early flageolet from Etampes, a green dried bean), lettuce (different lettuce varieties), artichokes from Paris (variety: large green from Laon, with falling production), turnips from the Paris region (varieties: Viarmes, Croissy, Montesson, Freneuse, a very old Ile-de-France crop).

Fruit tree growing accounts for 650 jobs at 210 farms. Ile-de-France orchards are mostly composed of table apples (53% including the Faro, the oldest variety from Brie, which is large, blood red, tender, sweet and tart) and pears (32% including Doyenné du Comice, Conférence and Groslay pears also called Montmagny, from Deuil, St-Brice, which is an area that actually produces many varieties like Conférence, Comice, Beurré Hardy, Williams, Louise Bonne, etc.).
The other fruit grown in Ile-de-France are strawberries (from Marcoussis, Bièvre, Yvette, Linas) and greengage (reine-claude) from Chambourcy (the late variety has replaced the early one, smaller, more golden, less red). 
Recognized for the quality of its productions and its know-how, Ile-de-France is also a major horticultural region. It ranks second for the production of potted plants pour (cyclamen, begonia) and fourth for its nurseries (totalling 1,266 ha planted, 2 million containers) and represents about 245 businesses and 1,720 employees for a turnover of €120 million. It also produces bedding plants (pansies, primroses, geraniums, etc.) and cut flowers.
Lastly, Ile-de-France has a large forestry area (25% of the territory, totalling 278 000 ha) composed for 90% of broad-leaved species (including sessile and pedunculate oak, chestnut trees, etc.).

Many specialties and a famous gastronomy

Ile-de-France gastronomy is heir to a royal and popular tradition that remains a benchmark. For centuries the region has cultivated a sophisticated know-how based on renowned products and specialties.
There are numerous top quality dairy products, with about a hundred cheeses, the most famous of which are the Brie cheeses (Meaux AOC, Melun AOC, Montereau, Nangis, Coulommiers, Fougerus), Boursault (or lucullus), Fontainebleau (fromage frais), Délice de Saint-Cyr (triple cream) and several well-known goat’s cheeses.
The herbs and condiments include mint and peppermint from Milly, mustard from Meaux, saffron from Gâtinais, vinegar from Lagny and other aromatic herbs.
Besides the Parisian “viennoiseries” pastries and breads, Ile-de-France cakes and pastries are among the most famous. They include the glazed macaroon, (very Parisian, cited by Rabelais in 1552), the “niflette” (a specialty of Provins, a round of puff pastry with confectioner’s custard flavoured with orange blossom), the “tarte bourdaloue” (created in 1824, named after the Paris street, short-cut pastry topped with poached pears on an almond base), the Paris-Brest (created in 1881 to celebrate the cycling race of the same name, choux pastry shaped like a wheel, praline confectioner’s custard, topped with almonds slivers and icing sugar).

Other regional sweets are also very famous, such as barley sugar from Moret-sur-Loing, rose-flavoured sweets from Provins, the “coquelicot” poppy from Nemours (syrup, sweet, liqueur), the “pavé de chocolat” chocolate slab from Meaux with filling, the jams from Ile-de-France and honey from Gâtinais.
Ile-de-France also has a wealth of beverages and liqueurs, such as beers (Brie, Gâtinais, Vexin, frequent prize winners), cider from Brie, “Noyau” from Poissy (maceration of wild apricot kernels in cognac), Grand Marnier, Claquesin (named after the herbalist - pharmacist), etc.
Finally, the famous Ile-de-France recipes include a fattened hen dish called “Poularde à la Briarde”, “Bouchées à la reine” (puff pastry stuffed with a creamy savoury filling), “Navarin d’agneau” (delicious lamb and vegetable stew), “lapin en gibelotte” (rabbit stew with white wine), calf’s head vinaigrette, onion soup, Crécy and Saint-Germain soups, “bœuf miroton” (beef casserole), “pot-au-feu Henri IV” (boiled beef with vegetables) and many others.

Francis Duriez
Source :CESR, Conseil régional d’Ile de France, Préfecture de la Région Ile de France, DRIAAF Ile de France, Librairie Gourmande)


Pro reviews

Daniel Canepa

Daniel Canepa
(Prefect of the Ile-de-France region, Prefect of Paris)

“The food industry is one of the sectors that creates the most wealth in our region, whether in terms of jobs, turnover, value added, a healthy overseas trade balance or a dynamic regional economy.
Food industry companies in the region contribute roughly 11% of the national value added for the industry, with a turnover of €3.2 billion, topping the list of French regions.
This sector is mostly composed of SMEs and very small businesses positioned usually on very elaborate products. They co-exist with the large groups and various economic bodies of exceptional size, such as the Rungis MIN, the world’s largest fresh produce market, and the largest public central purchasing agencies for collective catering in France.
The industry’s contribution to regional employment is very important, with close to 150,000 jobs if we include the jobs in food processing companies, food wholesalers, collective catering and caterers, etc.
Ile-de-France agriculture is an activity that contributes to the economic health of the region and the territory’s development. The State supports the sector by means of various public policy tools:
- agricultural and rural development in the context of implementing FEADER, with aids for investment in farms, environmental policies, diversification of farming activity and local land development. Some €22 million from FEADER has already been distributed and, with the compensations from the State, region and departments, there is roughly €100 million in total available for the period 2007-2013;

- development of organic farming: we are finalizing an organic plan for the region to support this sector in Ile-de-France;
- aids to help young farmers get started;
- aids for farming sectors or for the economic development of farms, such as CAP subsidies, of course, but also aids implemented in the context of the CPER to assist experimentation and technical support in animal husbandry and specialized farming sectors.
These systems are implemented in partnership with the Regional Council, which has its own support tools, and we have jointly designed how they work.
Some work has been done in the area of aids to food industry companies, managed and backed by various regional development bodies (DRIAAF, with DRCE, DRIRE), in partnership with the Regional Council, to formalize a regional action plan to support the food industry by means of quality aids, investment aids and export aids. Additions will be made to this action plan, particularly after the food industry meetings I recently organized with the backing of the regional authority for the sector (DRIAAF), which produced various action proposals to enhance the policy adopted at national level to assist the competitiveness of companies in this sector. I take the opportunity to point out that the DRIAAF has competence for the food sector since 1st January 2009.”

 

Jean-Paul Huchon

Jean-Paul Huchon
(President of the Ile-de-France Regional Council)

“People do not automatically associate the Ile-de-France region with agriculture. Other images come to mind, even for the region’s inhabitants. These images do not correspond to reality. While Ile-de-France is a centre for industry, research or cultural heritage, it is also a major region for farming and the food industry. Of the 1,300 towns in Ile-de-France, two thirds are basically rural towns and one  third are farming-dependent. The farming sector accounts for over 6,000 farms and employs about 25,000 people. When we include the entire agribusiness sector, the total comes to 7,150 businesses and 95,000 jobs. The Ile-de-France region is a major farming and food industry player, both at a national and a global level. This is why the Regional Council has made it one of its foremost development priorities. In the context of European rural development planning, for the first time we were eligible for the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development. As a result, we were able to increase our support to the farming world, already strongly aided by the Regional Economic Development Plan and the Overall Plan for the Ile-de-France Region. We also provide a lot of support to local agriculture and organic agriculture. Lastly, we put a lot of stock in developing research, notably by setting up a “living centre”. We are one of the leading regions in the world in terms of agronomy-sciences devoted to the food industry, health and the environment. This can be seen in the “Domaine d’Intérêt Majeur” label (key research sectors backed by the Region) that we created or the excellence centres operating at national level, like the Institut National Agronomique, Ecole Nationale Vétérinaire, INRA or AFSSA.
The food industry sector of the Val-de-Marne department is very powerful, with nearly 4,000 businesses representing over 41,000 direct jobs. Thanks to the Rungis Market in particular, the Val-de-Marne is France’s leading department for fresh produce. This regional and national asset makes Rungis not only a breadbasket for the whole country but also an agribusiness centre on a European scale. Some very large production and distribution companies have set up office next to Rungis Market, creating many jobs. This major sector will be further developed in future to host other players from this important economic sector. Lastly, Rungis Market has a key role to play in the reorganization of short distribution channels for produce from local agriculture. The best proof of this is that despite 40 years of changes and its relocation, Rungis Market has managed to remain faithful to the original vocation of the Pavillon Baltard, which was to guarantee the quality, safety and traceability of foodstuffs.”

 

Jacqueline Penez

Jacqueline PENEZ
(President of CERVIA Paris Ile-de-France)

“Agriculture covers half the regional territory and 5,500 farms keep it going with 30,000 jobs and over €1 billion in turnover. Cereal crops are largely dominant but specialized crops, market garden crops, arboriculture and horticulture have significant productions (lettuces, parsley, radishes, white onions, cress, apples, pears, etc.). The Producers’ Floor at Rungis is an illustration of this dynamism. In animal husbandry, 2 AOC (Brie cheese from Meaux and Melun) serve as examples of a highly efficient dairy production.
In the food processing industry, Ile-de-France ranks first among French regions in terms of value added and the sector represents about 150,000 jobs (not including the retail trade and commercial catering, which are also emblematic).
The weight of this sector is nevertheless too frequently ignored in a capital region that has many cutting edge industries.
The CERVIA has two main missions: to promote products and know-how and to support companies.
The promotion involves some very varied actions: the website, trade shows for professionals and the general public, educational actions targeting youth, information days, regional competitions as well as in-depth work with companies on the identification of regional products. In short, the goal is to promote the food culture in Ile-de-France.
When the CERVIA launched the 1st regional competition for food innovation in 2007, Rungis Market immediately offered its backing and has proved to be a precious partner, with a wonderful prize-giving ceremony at Rungis on 30 September 2008.
CERVIA and Rungis Market have joined forces again in 2009 for the 40th anniversary of the move from Les Halles de Paris. Besides the communication done on the Ile-de-France stand at SIA, two events provided a new partnership opportunity: the regional culinary art Competition for students from the CFA (apprentice training centre) and hotel schools, where the final will be held at Espace Rungis on 29 April, and the conference “Feeding the capital region” (Nourrir la région-capitale), which will take place in the amphitheatre of the Regional Council on 4 June 2009, where Rungis International Market has a central role in the debates.”

Sylvie Pasquet

Sylvie Pasquet
(President of AIDPFL, member of the Chambre régionale d’Agriculture of Ile-de-Franceand the Chambre d’Agriculture of Seine-et-Marne, producer of vegetables on the Producers’ Floor at Rungis)

“Located in the south of the Seine-et-Marne department, our farm is specialized in the production of young lettuce shoots and aromatic plants that we sell in equal proportions on the Producers’ Floor at Rungis and for export. We are 80 producers on the Floor at Rungis, representing 22,000 tons of produce a year (20,000 tons of vegetables and 2,000 tons of fruit).
The Ile-de-France fruit and vegetable production is now spread throughout the greater Paris region whereas it used to be located just outside Paris. As regards fruit production, which is recognized for its quality, it has decreased significantly for several reasons, including heavy urban development, fire blight in orchards and, above all, massive importation of fruit at low prices.  
As for the vegetable production in Ile-de-France, it remains steady thanks to the vast consumption basin surrounding it (11 million consumers and 40 million tourists). Lettuce is the flagship product due to the great freshness, because a lettuce cut at dawn is on the consumer’s plate by midday. Moreover, the vegetable production is evolving at the request of restaurants and it is very well promoted at Rungis Market. There is a great determination to innovate among our market garden producers, famous for their know-how. For all these reasons, I remain confident in the future of our activity.”

Michel Caffin

Michel Caffin
(Farmer - President of the Chambre régionale d’agriculture for Seine-et-Marne - Ile de France - Vice-president of the regional bank of Crédit Agricole Ile-de-France – Regional councillor for Ile-de-France)

“Ile-de-France is a great farming region with 50% of its territory devoted to agriculture and 25% to forestry. Ile-de-France farm production only represents 1% of the national territory but it is particularly well-placed in terms of large farms (cereals, colza, oleaginous plants, sugar beet, etc.), livestock farming, fruit and vegetable (lettuce) production, arboriculture and horticulture.  This is a wealthy, diverse region by the range and specificity of its land and the quality of its productions, although it is still insufficient. Indeed, with about 6,000 farmers for a basin of 11 million consumers, it is hard to match a completely variable supply (weather hazards, cyclical nature of productions, production and labour costs, etc.) to a constant demand. To our producers’ credit, we are seeing a return to short channels that enhances the value of products and a concern for sustainable development. Today, local production increasingly makes sense and, in this respect, the Rungis producers’ floor is a very useful solution for the image, distribution and development of our productions. The same is true of the Cervia, which plays an essential role in terms of promoting and increasing the value of existing and new Ile-de-France productions.
Another important sector in Ile-de-France is the food processing industry, which carries immense macro-economic weight. However, it is primarily a secondary processing industry whereas our agriculture requires a primary processing industry, which is mainly done outside our region.
Furthermore, the pressure of urban expansion, which is now contained, acted as a brake on the development and stability of our different farm productions for a long time. Yet despite these constraints, I remain optimistic about the region’s future because of its capacities and production methods, the level of competence of its professionals via our agronomic research centres and the very high demand from consumers.”

Philippe Mauguin

Philippe Mauguin
(Regional and Interdepartmental Director for food, agriculture and forestry in Ile-de-France)

“Ile-de-France is a large agricultural and rural region composed of eight departments, with 50% of its surface area devoted to farming and 25% to forestry. It also represents an important food industry centre, in the heart of France’s largest consumption basin with eleven million inhabitants and 40 million tourists a year. The food industry sector is composed of many SMEs working in primary, secondary and tertiary processing, traders who mostly at Rungis and the industrial catering and catering sector. The whole formed by the food industry, farming and landscape works represents some 200,000 jobs and ranks first in the Ile-de-France employment basin. The departments in the area around Paris include some historically great farming regions (Beauce, Grand Plateau common to the Centre region, Brie, Plaine de France, Thiérache and Gâtinais) that have for a long time represented “France’s granary” with some of the highest cereal and beet yields in Europe. Furthermore, market gardening, cultivation of fruit and ornamental trees, horticulture and animal husbandry represent a dynamic economic activity that is significant in Ile-de-France. Ile-de-France productions have key advantages in terms of freshness, quality and rapidity, like the lettuces, which can be on the consumer’s plate less than twenty-four hours after picking, via Rungis Market and its producers’ floor. In addition, Ile-de-France has a particularly rich, diverse range of products, such as cheeses (including two Brie AOC and goat’s cheeses), fruit and vegetables (ranked first for watercress and button mushrooms), aromatic herbs (ranked first for parsley, peppermint), beers (Brie and Gâtinais), organic produce, cooked meats, jams, breads and pastries made with sweetened dough. All these top quality products are what make Ile-de-France one of our country’s largest food industry regions.”

Gérard Gratiot

Gérard Gratiot
(Ripener, Manager of Gratiot – dairy produce (PLA) sector of Rungis)

“Our company has a traditional cheese ripening (10% of turnover) and distribution business. We ripen cheeses from Ile-de-France like Brie cheese from Meaux or Melun, the two AOC cheeses from the Seine-et-Marne department. It takes five to six weeks to ripen Brie from Meaux and twelve to fourteen weeks for Brie from Melun. Our traditional ripening produces a slightly redder pigmentation, like cheeses used to have in the old days. We also sell other cheeses from Ile-de-France such as Coulommiers, Brie from Provins, Brie from Nangis, Royal Briard, etc.  The cheeses from Ile-de-France are usually soft cheeses with a mould rind made from cow’s milk, notably from the Prim’holstein breed.
In 2008, the production of Brie from Meaux dropped slightly and that from Melun remained the same. After 1981, the Brie appellation area was expanded to include the Meuse, Marne and Haute-Marne departments. However, Ile-de-France has a wealth of other cheeses such as small goat’s cheese and little “hearts” made from cow’s milk. It is a good cheese-making region that has a well-deserved reputation for the high quality of its products.”

Chantal Brossard

Chantal Brossard
(General Manager of POPB, member of GIE Alliance, producer of cut flowers at Rungis)

“We produce cut flowers from Ile-de-France such as dahlias, sweet peas, arums, lily-of-the-valley, hyacinths, asters, delphiniums, mini carnations, etc.
Ile-de-France horticulture is very good quality but it is shrinking every year. Its quality is a decisive factor in the face of competition from exporter countries (Holland, Columbia, Israel, etc.) and its competitive edge comes from its great freshness and excellent appearance. Being at Rungis means you can have flowers less than 24 hours after cutting, which is a strength. However, our production is becoming more sporadic because of the cost of heating greenhouses in winter. It is also hard to find qualified labour. As a result, we have to reduce our volumes to save on costs and work more with just-in-time methods, with less varieties and species. Nevertheless, Ile-de-France production is still well placed because it has products you cannot find elsewhere. Yet due to the lack of sufficient flows at Rungis, some Ile-de-France producers are looking for other outlets. In fact, the horticulturists concerned should have grouped together into one large economic interest group twenty years ago to better sustain local production. However, local production is still present thanks to its qualities.”

Jackie Theart

Jackie Théart
(Secretary General of the Ile-de-France horticulturists association (Syndicat des horticulteurs d’Ile-de-France), President of the APHUMR, Manager of SCH. Théart – horticultural producers sector of Rungis)

“Our production covers potted plants, bedding plants, biennials and to some extent indoor plants, representing 3 million bedding plants a year (annuals and biennials included) and 200,000 potted plants. Horticulture in Ile-de-France is composed of small companies for the most part, some medium-sized companies and a few large companies like our own. With urban development, which is now limited, many local companies disappeared, others moved out to the areas around Paris and the largest companies moved to the provinces.
Ile-de-France production has evolved with the clientele. Forty years ago, the clientele consisted of small florists, seed merchants in the city centre and stallholders on markets. Today, they are replaced by mass distribution, self-service, major brand names, landscape businesses and local authorities. Although our production still focuses on quality, we have had to adapt to the market with higher yields and by developing new lines (varieties, colours, shapes, etc.). You have to constantly stand out, innovate and create to remain competitive in the face of the more “industrial” competition from our neighbours. In this respect, Rungis is a symbol and a magnificent showcase. Nonetheless, Ile-de-France is still a vast consumer basin that encourages local flower production.”

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