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Nord - Pas de Calais : A rich and diverse region
With its strategic position in the centre of northwest Europe, the diversity of its geography and a gastronomy shaped by many influences, the Nord - Pas de Calais region is an economic centre renowned for the quality of its products and its know-how…
The Nord - Pas de Calais region (12,414 km2, four million inhabitants) is composed of two departments, the Nord (comprising Flandre, Hainaut and Cambrésis) and Pas de Calais (comprising Artois, Boulonnais and Calaisis). Bordered by the North Sea and the Channel (140 km of coastline), it offers a variety of landscapes. The region has learned to put its many assets to best use (5.3% of national GDP, 4th economic region, 4th French agribusiness region, 3rd export region) and its position as a “crossroads” has helped internationalize its economy.
A very efficient agriculture
Agriculture is a key sector covering 846,000 hectares with 15,560 farms. It represents 69% of the territory (with 42% for cereal crops) and certain crops rank in first place nationally like chicory (137,300 tons, 58% of national volumes), potatoes for consumption (1.97 million tons), petits pois (33% of volumes), endives (95% of volumes, world leader), dried beans (Label Rouge/IGP lingot du Nord, Label Rouge flageolet). The region ranks 2nd for production of cauliflower, celeriac, hops and onions, and ranks 3rd for leeks, garlic (Arleux smoked garlic, Locon garlic) and sugar beet (4.53 million tons). The other vegetable productions are beetroot, wild chicory, carmine, etc…
Market gardening is particularly developed in the areas around Lille, Dunkerque andin the Audomarois marshlands (3,400 hectares, around Saint-Omer) criss-crossed by 160 km of “watergangs” (small canals) where cauliflower and Tilques carrots are cultivated in particular. The fruit production mostly concerns apples (13,000 tons) and strawberries, which have been cultivated for two centuries in the Pévèle and Boulonnais regions and around Phalempin.
Well-known meats and poultry
Cattle livestock numbers over 685,000 head and the meat production is about 58,000 tons. The regional breeds are Blanc Bleue, Bleue du Nord and Flamande Rouge (or Rouge du Nord). The Blanc Bleue is very rustic (slate-grey coat with blue sheen, 750 kg to 900 kg and 1,100 kg for the bull) and produces 70% of meat under the “Belle Bleue” brand (Label Rouge). The Bleue du Nord is a mixed breed that almost disappeared in 1970 (French government directive limiting cattle breeds to fifteen). Rescued from extinction by a small number of farmers, the herd now numbers 15 000 head. The Flamande Rouge is a dairy breed (one of the oldest in France) with less than 3,500 cows. There is a veal production (veal from Pays d’Artois) fed on whole milk from the farm, which gives a tender, fine meat. Pig farming (519,000 head) is a speciality of the region, concentrated in Flandre, the Lys plain and Haut Pays d’Artois. Pigs from Hauts Pays are fattened on corn (75%). Pork (80,300 tons, with certified conformity) is the meat most consumed in the region (35kg/inhabitant/year, especially in cooked meats). Sheep farming is relatively limited with 65,000 head (a thousand tons of meat) and some farmers have started up a production of local lamb (Agn’Hauts Pays, with certified conformity) for the butcher trade.
Rabbit farming (52,000 does) is a regional tradition (Hauts de France, Ch’ti and Beffrois rabbit). Consumption of rabbit (2,010 tons, with certified conformity) is higher than the national average. As a major poultry region (53,000 tons poultry meat, 46,000 tons whole chickens, 6,850 tons cuts), Nord-Pas de Calais is well-known for its free-range poultry from Licques (Label Rouge/IGP) and “Beffrois” chicken (Label Rouge). Licques turkeys are raised exclusively for the year end festivities. The region counts 5.3 million table type chickens, 950,000 turkeys and 1.8 million laying hens (394 million eggs including Label Rouge free-range eggs).
A renowned cheese production
Milk (200,000 milk cows, 12.1 million hectolitres, 30% of farms) is the second largest farm production after cereals. The principal dairy areas are the Boulonnais, Haut Pays and Avesnois regions. Nord-Pas de Calais is a quality cheese region. A typical example is Maroilles, (AOC/AOP, 3,000 tons), a soft cheese with brushed rind made from cow’s milk. Vieux Gris from Lille (also called Maroilles Gris, greyish rind and creamy white centre) has a more powerful taste than Maroilles. Bergues (20 cm diameter, 6 cm thick, 2 kg), made from skimmed cow’s milk, is ripened for at least two months in special caves (hoofsteads) then brushed with salt water and beer. Boulette d’Avesnes (red brick colour cone) is flavoured with spices and herbs and coated in paprika.
Mimolette (hard cheese made from cow’s milk, spherical shape, 20 cm diameter, 2.5 kg to 4 kg) has a dry, hard grey-brown rind, and orange coloured centre. Its ripening gives it a delicate hazelnut taste. Belval (from the Belval Trappist monastery) is an uncooked hard cheese, with a smooth straw-coloured rind and pale ivory centre (2 kg, 20 cm diameter and 4 cm thick). Tomme de Cambrai (unpasteurized cow’s milk) is a creamy hard cheese, ripened in a cave, with homemade beer. Cœur d’Arras is a soft cheese with a brick red rind and a creamy centre with a powerful smell. These are just some of the many excellent cheeses produced by the region’s talented cheese makers and ripeners.
Quality seafood
Essential to the region’s economy, fishing and seafood products represent nearly 20% of French production (all activities). While Boulogne-sur-Mer remains the leading French fishing port (55,000 hauls and 377,000 tons intake in 2007), Nord-Pas de Calais ranks as the second French region in terms of seafood. Besides the star species like coalfish (king of Boulogne’s deep sea fishing, 6,423 tons) and whiting (leader of the Etaplois fleet, 5,476 tons), there are other quality species (sole, red mullet, bass, squid, Saint-Jacques scallops). Herring (5,100 tons), mackerel (2,068 tons) and cuttlefish (2,060 tons) remain the most popular species of the region.
Salmon, tropical shrimp (cooked) and aquaculture are also very important activities for regional companies. While the fish trade and filleting remain the leading activities, the other productions (salting, canning, fish soups, frozen and breaded products, prepared fish products) have an important economic weight. The regional shellfish and mussel farms have a good reputation and are growing.
A renowned gastronomy and products
The gastronomic heritage of Nord-Pas de Calais is very diverse because of its numerous lands and products. It is well defended by the leading chefs of the region (including roughly a dozen with stars). The culinary tradition has been heavily influenced by the maritime environment (kippers, rollmops, fish waterzoï, fish soups, Saint-Jacques scallops, mussels, etc.) and the regional recipes combine products from the area and elsewhere. The flagship dishes include: - potjevlesch: (Label STG) a terrine made from three or four cooked meats in aspic: pork, rabbit, chicken and veal, - lucullus: smoked beef tongue and foie gras in pastry (Valenciennes), - hochepot de bœuf: pot-au-feu with beer, - carbonade de bœuf: a sort of beef stew with beer - flamiche au maroilles: pie with Maroilles cheese, - andouillettes (sausages) from Cambrai and Arras.
The region also offers excellent cakes and sweets: tarte au sucre, tarte au libouli (with boiled milk), coquille de Noël, gaufre fourrée, pain d’épices, bêtises de Cambrai, pastille du mineur, sucre candi, babelutte de Lille (toffee with brown sugar and vanilla), chique de Bavay, etc. The drinks are firstly beer (one of France’s three beer-brewing regions) made by traditional methods by over twenty breweries (two thousand in the last century). There are special beers, reserve beers, specialties, lagers, amber, brown or light ales, high or low fermentation, etc. Then there are genièvre (alcohol from fermented grain must) and cider.
Francis Duriez
Source : CR Nord-Pas de Calais, CRT Nord-Pas de Calais, Comité de promotion
et Groupement Qualité Nord-Pas de Calais, Saveurs en’Or, Syndicat général
des Mareyeurs, Chambre Régionale de l’Agriculture, Librairie Gourmande-Paris…
Photos : Comité de Promotion ; JP Metsers ; Francis Duriez ; Pierre
Coucke ; Chambre Régionale d'Agriculture ; GQ Nord Pas de Calais ; Syndicat
des Mareyeurs
Pro reviews
Laurent Verhaegue
(President of the Nord-Pas de Calais Promotion Committee)
«The actions of this department of the Regional Chamber of Agriculture, set up in 1971, have evolved and it benefits from the partnership with the Regional Council. Its mission is to promote regional products and the image of our gastronomy. The department assists the development of agribusiness companies (export, innovation), supports them at trade shows in France and abroad and promotes the collective regional brand called Saveurs en’Or. The many actions taken include: - the operation called Invitez les saveurs du Nord-Pas de Calais à votre Table, which brought together 400,000 guests last March, all over France, - running the network Tables Régionales du Nord-Pas de Calais devoted to regional gastronomy, - distributing documents (recipe books, posters, etc.), that reflect our gastronomic diversity We shall continue pursuing our goals including the development of the Saveurs en’Or brand, which now has 105 member companies. Promotional actions for the general public should increase, and we will continue the operations for collective catering, and the educational tools. Lastly, we want to develop closer ties between farmers and agribusiness companies ».
Marc Meurin
(Restaurant owner of Château de Beaulieu - 62 Busnes- 2* Michelin and Bottin Gourmand)
« After attending a hotel school in Lille, I started working for a caterer at 17 and then started my first business when I was 20 (in 1974), which was a small cafe in Laventie. With my wife, we completely transformed it and it earned us a certain reputation. In 1984, it was destroyed by a fire. We moved to Béthune where we opened Le Meurin (from 1985 to 2004) where we earned our two stars. We then opened the Château de Beaulieu in Busnes, a gourmet restaurant where we work with top-of-the-range products. I have always had a slightly modern cuisine, while promoting our regional products. Our regional cuisine, which used to be hearty, has become much lighter with steam cooking. We are lucky to have a seaside department that supplies us with top quality seafood products. We opened a second restaurant brasserie-type restaurant called Le Jardin d’Alice, where we propose a very regional cuisine. Our region is very rich in food terms and our cuisine is distinctive and traditional. Nord-Pas de Calais is a region for gastronomy and I wholeheartedly support it ».
Yves Durand
(Deputy Mayor of Lomme, President of the Lomme MIN, President of FFMIN)
« The Marché d’Intérêt National (MIN) of Lomme of which I have been president since 1990, through the urban community of Lille, has specialized in the fruit and vegetables market. We have developed the activity there by modernizing its structures and by widely diversifying the range of products proposed, particularly with meat, horticulture and shortly fish. With some 40 hectares, including 6 hectares of buildings, 50 companies, 650 employees and 230,000 tons of products traded every year, the Lomme MIN is the leading provincial MIN in tonnage per square metre. It is an agribusiness benchmark for the Nord-Pas de Calais region, in which it plays a major role, because of its strategic, geographic and economic position in the European context. The MIN (public interest market) has become a flourishing commercial entity because the changing economy demonstrates the prime importance of preserving a regulated market in view of the problems affecting both professionals and French consumers in their daily life. These markets are a model and an example. Nord-Pas de Calais is a region where ingrained values like solidarity, tenacity, hard work and service are united. All these essential values that have helped turn it into a great economic region. This is confirmed in every domain and especially in the farming and food processing sectors, with the move away from intensive cereal and beet crops to a more diversified farming with high value added. The region’s future depends on the development of a vast agribusiness sector positioned on the European market… ».
Jean-Bernard Bayard
(President of the Nord-Pas de Calais Regional Chamber of Agriculture and President of the Pas de Calais Chamber of Agriculture)
« In 2005, we had 846,000 hectares of effective farmland (69% of the territory devoted to agriculture) and 15,560 farms (53 ha average size). In France, the Nord-Pas de Calais region ranks in: - first place for chicory, potatoes for consumption, chicory for coffee, petits pois, chrysanthemums, dried beans; - second place for celeriac, hops, cauliflower, textile flax, onions; - third place for leeks, garlic, sugar beet; - twelfth place for its agricultural income; - seventeenth for its agricultural surface area. This agriculture that also includes mixed crops and livestock farming, benefits from a high renewal rate with 250 young farmers who set up in business every year. All agribusiness sectors are largely present in our region and this plurality reinforces our capacity to adapt. Our agriculture meets society’s requirements and furthers the development of agricultural resources. Nord-Pas de Calais is one France’s top agribusiness regions in terms of number of companies and workforce and home to large regional companies that are European or world leaders in their fields. It also hosts some big names in the French or global food processing industry, not to mention a dense network of innovative, dynamic SMEs ».
Christian Bardel
(Director of Groupement Qualité du Nord-Pas de Calais)
« This Quality Group was set up in 1985, at the initiative of the regional consumption centre and various consumer organizations, with the backing of the Regional Council, in order to develop the regional Nord-Pas de Calais label. At first, it grouped a dozen specifications, notably dealing with the cooked meats, seafood, Maroilles cheese and special regional beer sectors. Intended to promote regional products, it primarily corresponded to consumers’ expectations, in the search for officially recognized quality products that were associated with a territory. Unfortunately, the regional label was banned in 2002 by a European directive. As a result, we converted it into a collective regional brand called Saveurs en’Or. It now covers 110 companies and 400 products. At the same time, we have a certain number of products under official quality labels (Label Rouge, IGP, AOC, AOP, Certification de Conformité) and a Spécialité Traditionnelle Garantie label, official sign of European quality, awarded to our famous potjevlesch (terrine with four meats), a typical dish from our region, for which we want to protect the recipe. Many other labelling files are pending, notably in the seafood products sector. Nord-Pas de Calais is a great agricultural and agribusiness region where we know how to produce everything other than wine »
Aymeric Chrzan
(General Secretary of the Syndicat Général des Mareyeurs)
« Nord/Pas de Calais is the second largest French region in seafood products with 20% of the national activity concentrated at the port of Boulogne-sur-Mer, France’s largest fishing port. With 377,000 tons intake (2007), 120 companies and 5,000 direct jobs, Boulogne-sur-Mer is the largest French distribution, conversion and logistics platform and a key centre for fresh products. Our fishing sector is confronting, as at national level, a fall off in volumes and a problem of profitability tied to the rise in the price of diesel. Even though that causes problems for the regional companies on shore, particularly the fish trade, they remain optimistic. The assets of the port of Boulogne and the efforts made by companies are starting to produce results. Furthermore, the port’s companies will also benefit from an additional activity park of 20 ha. For the region and the port of Boulogne-sur-Mer, the development of seafood products is a priority concern and the investments in progress are the proof of the regional operators’ confidence in the future of the sector ».
Jean-Marie Alexandre
(Vice-president of the Nord-Pas de Calais Regional Council, in charge of agriculture, fishery and rural development)
« Nord-Pas de Calais ranks in 4th place among French regions. It has with four million inhabitants and 1,550 towns, with over 900 in Pas de Calais, France’s largest rural department. Paradoxically, a large part of its population (1.5 million inhabitants) is concentrated in the central urban area (Lille area and mining basin from Béthune to Valenciennes). Rural and out-of-town, our region depends on about 15,000 farms. As everywhere else, this number will decrease in the years ahead. Cereals, potatoes, beet, livestock and milk (major production) remain the principal sectors. Lastly, the food processing industries hold a large place in the region’s economic activity (Roquette, Leroux, Bonduelle, etc.) as well as a broad range of SMEs. Fishing holds a key place in our economy. Boulogne-sur-Mer is France’s leading fishing port. On top of the production of 50,000 tons fished another 300,000 tons are imported and processed at CAPECURE. The fishing profession is suffering from the quotas and disputes the announced scarcity of the resource, demanding that further studies be conducted. The Region backs this approach and is arguing the case in Paris and Brussels with Pierre-Georges Dachicourt, our regional and national president. The Region is an essential partner for professionals and intervenes in the context of long-term agreements. Saveurs en’Or, the collective regional brand is the latest concrete example of this partnership. In conclusion, with a regional budget of €13 million/year, these levers promote our territory, agriculture and fishing sector ».
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