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Normandy : where excellence is second nature…

Normandy, with its varying landscapes, diverse shorelines, with rich soil and longstanding terroir tradition, has preserved its environment and local know-how to develop into one of the highly-reputed food and farming regions in France...

This wonderful region is split between the lower Basse-Normandie, covering the Calvados, Manche and Orne departments, and the upper Haute-Normandie, spanning the Eure and Seine-Maritime. The region’s 43,900 farms (averaging 46 hectares each) can draw on a total of 2.2 millions hectares of farmland for livestock cereals and agrifoods, plus 600 km of coastline fisheries. It is the leading French producer of butter and cheese (both fresh and soft-paste), cider apples and allied products, leeks, fibre flax, and certain seafoods, and leading horse-breeding region. From the dales to the sea, the Normandy agrifoods industry is based around seven core sectors: dairy products, seafood, meat, fruit, vegetables, cider production, and desserts and sweets.

A top-notch range of dairy produce

Normandy is, for many, the heartland of French dairy products. National leader with 3.5 billion litres per year of butter, cream, and fresh and soft-paste cheeses, the exceptional dairy and cheese range on offer includes six AOCs:
- Normandy camembert, granted AOC status in 1983, soft-ripened unpasteurised cow’s milk cheese with light rind mould, 45% fat, 13,330 tons/year),
- Pont l’évêque, granted AOC status in 1976, soft-ripened with a washed or brushed rind, 45% fat, aged in damp caves, 3,300 tons/year),
- Livarot, granted AOC status in 1975, soft-ripened unpasteurised cow’s milk cheese with the rind washed in annatto, wrapped in five strips of dried sedge, 1,300 tons/year),
- Neufchâtel, granted AOC status in 1969, soft-ripened cheese with light rind mould, sold heart-shaped, 11,200 tons/year),
- Normandy cream, from Isigny, a dairy AOC, maturedslowly, 5,200 tons/year),
- Isigny AOC butter, produced using the cream, rich in carotene and sodium, it is churned, washed in pure water, and kneaded, 4,300 tons/year).
Two other products are ranked Label Rouge, another quality indicator: mimolette cheese, both matured and extra-matured, and churn butter.
Milk represents 27% of Normandy’s agrifoods production .

First-class meat products

With 2.27 million head of cattle, Normandy has the second-largest cattle stock in France. In 2006, beef generated 20% of the region’s agri-output. Normandy is first and foremost a producer of dairy cattle, and several dairy breeds have been awarded Label Rouge status, while the Normandy bœuf bringé has been put forward for AOC status. The Normande, while the third most common dairy breed in France, is actually a dual-purpose breed that also gives beef.
Normandy is placed third nationally in pig production, at 800 pig farms, i.e. 5% of the national herd. The Bayeux (a cross-breed between the Normandy pig and the black English Berkshire) is one of five local French breeds. Free-range Normandy pork has Label Rouge status, as does its organic pork and several charcuterie meats like Brocéliande ham, dry sausage, and snack-thin dry sausage.
The relatively modest Normandy sheep herd of 212,400 heads boasts three races, the Avranchine, Cotentin and Roussin. Salt marsh lamb (for which an AOC application has been filed) is a pasture-fed lamb that is a particular delicacy as it is grazed on a unique diet of coastline marshes along the Manche shores (Mont St. Michel and Cotentin bays), where 135 farmers raise 18,000 ewes.
Around 42% of the region's poultry is Label Rouge chicken. The Label Rouge Normandy free-range chicken has it’s own PGI. Normandy rabbit represents 5% of national production volumes.

Top-quality fruit and vegetables

Normandy vegetable production gravitates around certain production basins, including the Manche coast (Val de Saire, the Créances area, Ouest-Cotentin, Mont-Saint-Michel) and the Calvados department. Around 60% of the region’s market gardens are in Basse-Normandie, with 46% in the Manche department alone.
Among the vegetables produced in the Manche department, carrots rank 3rd (631,500 quintals, 9% of national production), while leek comes in 1st at 302,000 quintals (16% of market share) and cauliflower sixth, at 161,450 quintals). The carrots and leeks ‘des sables’ from the Créances area have been awarded Label Rouge status. What makes Créances such a fertile production area is its unique pedoclimatic conditions, with highly specific sandy soil brushed by drifting sea mists…
Normandy produces some 15,000 tons of potatoes per year, and 2,000 tons of cabbage.
Over 800 apple species are farmed, yielding 22,000 tons per year, together with 1,500 tons of pears per year (0.7% of national market share). Local salads and lettuces (35 species) are produced essentially for sale as ready-prepared fresh foods .

A major cider-producing region

The Normandy cider orchards product 300,000 tons/year of cider apples (sweet, bitter-sweet, bitter, tangy and sharp). Cider is made by successive stages of brewing, then pressing, where the pomage is left to form a must, which is sieved, then casked, followed by two-to-three months of fermentation. Once bottled, it naturally produces a mousse that gives it that cider sparkle. There are a host of quality labels: Pays d’Auge cider (AOC and PDO), Normandy cider (Label Rouge, PGI and CCP), organic-label cider, and a collective label of Haute-Normandie ciders. AOC applications have been filed for several others, including Bessin, Cotentin, Pays de Caux and Perche.
Cider distilled in an alembic gives calvados spirit, which boasts three AOCs (Calvados, Calvados Pays d’Auge, Calvados Domfrontais). Pay’s d’Auge Calvados is double-distilled, a process known locally as ‘de repasse’.
Calvados Domfrontais is developed with 30% pear. Production volumes have waned in recent years, from 29,000 hectolitres/year in 1990/1995 to 23,160 over the last five campaigns. Pommeau is a locally-produced aperitif made from cider-apple must, or ‘pomage’, and calvados. Normandy Pommeau (granted AOC status in 1991) is produced in the same zone as the calvados designation of origin, giving 16% to 18% alcohol by volume after 14 months of cask ageing. Perry has been a traditional alcoholic beverage for centuries. This pear cider is made from thirty-odd varieties, one of the most sought-after being the plant de blanc. The AOC Poiré Domfrontais (since 2001) is relatively light, giving a gentle head.

Gastronomy, plus desserts and sweets

The abundant richness and quality of Normandy milk made it possible to come up with a wide range of highly-reputed dishes and desserts. Milk jam is one, produced after slow-cooking milk and sugar, sometimes with a few added vanilla seeds. French-style shortbread biscuits are made with a flour, butter and egg base plus fresh cream and then coated in buttermilk and baked in the oven (galettes d’Avranches and galettes de Bayeux).
Isigny caramel is produced using sugar, fresh cream and butter and perfumed with vanilla, coffee or calvados.
The famous tergoule, a cinnamon-flavoured rice-pudding, and the delicious Normandy apple tart are both flagship Normandy sweets.
Other absolute classics of the region include vallée d’Auge chicken and escalopes, sole meunière, the eponymous Vire Andouille smoked sausage, Caen-style tripe, Rouen-style duck, rack of salt marsh lamb in a salt crust, Normandy Saint-Jacques scallops baked in a pasty case and perfumed with star anis, the Normandy seafish stew and the similar marmite Dieppoise, pan-roasted neufchâtel cheese with gingerbread spice-loaf, Vergeoise apple tart, and many, many more. (Sources include Irqua-Normandie, the Normandy Regional Chamber of Agriculture, Normandie Fraîcheur Mer, the Haute-Normandie regional council, CRT de Normandie, CNC, SN Pêche de Normandie).
Francis Duriez

Pro reviews

Daniel Genissel
(President of the Normandy Regional Chamber of Agriculture)

« The sister regions of Haute-Normandie and Basse-Normandie together enjoy a booming farming and agrifoods sector that generates 95,000 direct jobs (7.3% of the total regional employment figure, compared to the 6.3% national average). In total, 73% (the national average is 54%) of the region’s diverse natural landscape is devoted to agriculture, and a large proportion of that figure is pastureland, which environmentally speaking is quite an asset. The quality of Normandy produce, know-how and food heritage extends to well outside France. There are three core farm production sectors in Normandy: milk (15% of the national gallonage), beef (with second largest regional herd size), and cereals. Normandy is also national leader in the production of fibre flax, turnips, saddle horses and ponies, runner-up in leeks and celery, and third in pork. Other sectors, such as vegetables and cider, bring diversity and balance to the Normandy product mix. Normandy’s soil climate lends itself well to agriculture as well as shellfish production (600 km of coastline, and home to the largest shellfish production basin in France), and farming (led by the flagship Saint-Jacques scallop).
Normandy’s agriculture needs to realigns itself more to a market-based environment, but without losing any of its attractive, high-end brand image. The future of our regional agricultural production primarily hinges on responding to three key challenges: - continuing to improve the economic performance of our farms in relation to the agrifoods marketplace and regional industry systems, focusing specifically on innovation in terms of energy use and non-food factors; - efforts to enhance the attraction of agricultural trades; - positioning agriculture as a dynamic actor for rural areas. In Normandy, agriculture and the agrifoods industry are sectors with a bright future ».

Arnauld Manner
(Director of the Normandie Fraîcheur Mer Quality Collective)

« The collective was founded in late 98 by producer organisations from the Basse-Normandie region together with the Basse-Normandie regional fisheries commission with a view to differentiating the Normandy Saint-Jacques scallop from the run-of-the-mill imported scallops authorised to be marketed under the name ‘Saint-Jacques'. The first step was to apply for a designated origin label, and we were rewarded with the Label Rouge quality mark in 2002.
We also joined forces with the sector professionals (300 registered boats, 4 Basse-Normandie fish markets, and 10 wholesale fishmongers) to set up a specifications system for the quality produce we were landing along our coastline, which yields around 85 different species, including line-caught Barfleur wild bass, pouting, red gurnard, red mullet, sole, turbot, halibut… and Barfleur mussels, bouchot mussels, lobster, clams and littlenecks, whelks, Saint-Jacques scallops… plus cuttlefish, squid, calamari, and more. Our region lands the widest variety of seafood in France, and we are the leading national producer of shellfish, at close-on 40,000 tons. The Saint-Jacques scallop is one of the emblematic flagship products of the region’s food heritage, accounting for 60% of national production volumes, at 15,000 tons. The same is true for whelks (11,000 tons/year, 90% of national production) and clams (60% of national production). All seafood taken together, the overall picture is that Normandy is the third national producer region after the Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Brittany. All our efforts are turned towards better quality produce, greater added-value, and eco-labelling policy, in order to improve resources management ».

Jean-Pierre Blanc
(CEO of Blanc SA Huîtres Coquillages, at Rungis)

«We have developed trade partnerships to market flagship Normandy seafood such as whelks, bouchot mussels, oysters, littleneck clams... and of course the top-of-the-range Label Rouge Normandy Saint-Jacques scallops, which we sell to specific customers. Whelks, like the littleneck clams, all thrive in the Normandy region. As for bouchot mussels, Normandy boasts a very specific niche that yields a top-notch product. We sell about 4 tons of whelks per week, all year round, 5 tons per week of bouchot mussels, including the Mont-Saint-Michel AOC variety, from May through to January, as well as Normandy oysters from the Utah Beach basin or Courseulles-sur-Mer, and other shellfish. Normandy seafood represents about 10% of our business – it is top-quality produce, from a clean, healthy environment where we’ve never had any wholesomeness issues, as the products are tracked end-to-end and farmed by experienced specialists ».

Alain Le Vern
(President of the Haute-Normandie region)

« Rungis market will be centrestage in the second episode of the TV series ‘L’Ecole des Chefs’, to be aired on at 5.45 p.m; on May 5, 2007, on France2. Produced by Futur TV, this new show, a 5-part documentary at 52 minutes per episode, will be hosted by Guy Job and directed by Stéphane Gillot.
The idea came from the APAHC (Association for the Promotion of Haute-Cuisine Apprenticeships), of which Joël Robuchon is president.
Following on from other cheffing shows, the format is a face-off between seven apprentice chefs. The would-be chefs are split into four different kitchens, and each stage takes them though a different test, after which they’ll be assessed based on their skills and know-how acquired under their time with each top chef. Four of them will come through these qualifying rounds into the final, hosted at the Grégoire-Ferrandi school.
The seven candidates, all in their early twenties, represent different regions from across France and were selected from their respective hotel and catering schools, which means all are already well honed in the day-to-day running of a kitchen, thanks to several years of training. The first episode will take place in Alain Dutournier’s Carré des Feuillants, in the company of the head chef. The second episode will move on to Hôtel Meurice with Yannick Alléno, and the candidates will tour Rungis. Episode three will be hosted at Alain Liorca’s restaurant Le Moulin de Mougins, in the Alpes-Maritimes. Episode four will take place in Régis Marcon’s hotel-restaurant Auberge et Clos des Cîmes, at Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid, in the Haute-Loire. And finally, the episode 5 showdown between the remaining four qualifiers will take us to the Grégoire-Ferrandi catering school. The winner will go home will a 6-month work contract to chef in Joël Robuchon restaurants around the world, while the three runners-up will all win a three-month contract in the kitchens of one of France’s top restaurants. Part of the second episode was filmed at Rungis Market, at around 3 a.m. on April 12th. Along with Yannick Alléno (who needs no introduction!), camera crew, and training supervisor, all seven candidates began their tour of Rungis with the company France Ecrevisses, before moving on to the poultry section and BGL Avigros and Courtin-Hervouet, then to Vergers Saint-Eustache, winding up at Masse-Maison Du Foie Gras. All in all, an unforgettable visit for our future top chefs ».

Sophie Desailly
(Managing Director of Desailly – dairy produce, at Rungis)

« We sell a fair amount of Normandy dairy produce, including all four of the AOC cheeses camembert, livarot, pont-l’évêque and neufchâtel, and Isigny AOC fresh cream. They are all absolutely top-notch products that are very popular with our customers, and all of them enjoy a very strong regional identity... and pride of place on the cheese platter. They are undisputed classics, and their price is a reflection of the quality they offer. We only distribute these products to cheese and dairy retailers and high-end restaurants. Over the last twelve months, we have been trading them under our own brand, Campagne de France.
In addition, we also market a certain number of farmhouse cheeses from Normandy which are made special by the fact they also include products such as calvados, perry, cider, or aromatic herbs, spices, red wine, beer, and so on ».

Isabelle David
(Director of the Regional Agrifoods Quality Institute for Normandy - IRQUA)

« IRQUA-Normandy is a not-for-profit association (French 1901 law) created by Chambers of Agriculture with backing from the two regional councils of Basse-Normandie and Haute-Normandie. It was founded in order to bring together the key players from both the farming and fisheries sectors, with two core missions:
- to develop and foster quality initiatives in Normandy agrifoods sectors,
- to lead harmonised sector-wide communications on the origin and quality of Normandy produce.
The issue here is that while Normandy has an extraordinary experience base, the region doesn’t know how to sell itself: the objective, then, is to promote the assets we possess, to differentiate ourselves on what sis currently a crowded marketplace.
In terms of agrifoods, Normandy ranks 5th nationally, and is 1st on a number of products, including soft-ripened cheeses, cider apples, Saint-Jacques scallops, whelks, oysters, mussels, and others. Milk and meat account for 75% of the region’s agrifoods turnover.
Agrifoods is still the region’s leading job sector, with 200 companies (with over 20 staff) employing 36,000 people generating a sector turnover of around €8 billion.
Judging by the number of quality initiatives launched here, the Normandy region can boast and impressively deep food quality:
- 6 dairy AOCs, 6 cider-related AOCs (with another 4 in the pipeline), and 2 meat AOCs in the pipeline (salt marsh lamb, and Normandy Bringé beef),
- 13 Label Rouge quality marks (including Saint-Jacques scallops, Normandy poultry, Normandy pork),
- 15 product certification initiatives (shelled scallops, cider, lamb, and others).
The organic sector is also thriving, with 600 registered organic farmers. There are also collective marks such as Bienvenue en Gourmandie created in 2003 (with 270 selected products from 70 companies) in order to highlight the origin, quality and taste of Normandy-farmed products. The logo labelling the products is a clear, visible sign that gives consumers a visible indication of these properties ».

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