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Burgundy : A rich, traditional region
On the strength of its long history, Burgundy is a land of art and culture that has managed to acquire an international renown through its know-how, top quality products and gastronomy…
Immediately south of the Paris region, Burgundy (31 752 km2) is located in the centre-east of France and groups four departments: Côte-d’Or, Nièvre, Saône-et-Loire and Yonne. The principal towns are Dijon (21), Mâcon (71), Auxerre (89) and Nevers (58). It is a multifaceted region with an eventful history that owes its name to the invasion of the Burgundii tribe in 5th century AD. Historian Jules Michelet saw Burgundy as a “pleasant, wine-flavoured” place whereas the poet Lamartine saw it as a “harsh, wild land”.
A dynamic agriculture...
Burgundy numbers 22,359 farms and 36,600 farm workers, representing 5.5% of the working population. In addition, the food processing industry employs 10,600 people. In this region with a long farming tradition, AOC wine growing, cereals and cattle breeding represent 75% of its production. The effective farm area is 1.9 million hectares, or roughly 60% of the region’s territory (including 1,014 million hectares of arable land, 800,000 hectares of grazing land and 27,680 hectares of vineyards). In 2006, Burgundy ranked among France’s nine largest farming regions: 2nd for large cattle after Pays de Loire, 3rd for wine-growing, in 6th and 9th place for large-scale crops and cereals (including 316,000 hectares soft wheat, 142,400 hectares of barley and 170,900 hectares of colza).
Vegetable crops - potato, lettuce, cucumber, gherkin (Appoigny), petit pois, beans (coco de Chéru), onion (Auxonne yellow), leek, lentils, carrot, asparagus(Ruffey) – cover roughly 3,500 hectares. Fruit production is devoted to apples, pears, cherries (bigarreau marmotte), prunes (Vitteaux), red fruit and the famous blackcurrant. Cultivated over more than a thousand hectares for a harvest 1,800 tons, the mustard seed is used to make the famous Moutarde de Bourgone (IGP).
Top quality meats...
Renowned for the quality of its livestock (1.35 million head), Burgundy is strongly identified with the Charolais breed (Label Rouge). This beef breed is one of the treasures of Burgundy’s heritage and has been widely exported around the world. Generously built (145 cm and 1000 to 1400 kg for males, 140 cm and 720 to 900 kg for females), Charolais cattle have a uniformly white or cream hide, with short, curved horns. The meat is a lovely, bright red and stands out because it is tasty, very tender and has a fine, delicate marbling. Charolles beef cattle produce an exceptional meat that owes its future AOC to the typicality of the land (steady, heavy rainfall, dense hydric network, fertile grazing land, etc.) and natural, GMO-free feed.
By practising wide-scale grass-fed cattle rearing, nearly 80% of Burgundy’s cattle farmers produce stock with quality and origin certification (SIQO). Pig farming is smaller but high quality in Burgundy. Out of an estimated production of 225,000 pigs for slaughter, 20% of the production is certified, notably for ham on the bone, dried salted meats and marbled ham from Burgundy. Sheep farming represents about 286,000 head. Charolais lamb is particularly sought after for its fragrant, lean meat. It is recognizable by its pink or grey-tinted limbs and the lack of wool and horns.
Famous chickens…
Burgundy stands out for its very large quality-certified poultry production and 68% of the farmers in the region are wholly committed to all the existing procedures: AOC “Bresse chicken” and “Bresse turkey”, Label Rouge and IGP, CCP, AB. As a result, 64% of the meat chickens are produced under quality labels, compared to the national average of 24%. Bresse chicken (the only AOC chicken) is identified by a ring on the left foot, a red-white-blue seal at the bottom of the neck and an AOC label that specifies its production area. Similar to the colours of our flag, with blue feet, white plumage and meat, red comb and wattles, Bresse chicken is a national ‘symbol’ of quality.
Its reputation with gourmets is still intact thanks to its abundant meat (tender when cooked) and fine bones. Other well-known poultry is produced under quality labels (Label Rouge/IGP) like the Burgundy chicken, Charolais chicken or again the chicken from Plateau de Langres (partly in Côte-d’Or). In addition, for the last twelve years several farms in La Puisaye have been raising a capon with delicate meat, designed for year-end festivities.
Famous cheeses...
Regional milk production totalled 3,576,520 hectolitres in 2006. The quality of the milk is due to the richness of the pastures and grazing land, which makes cheeses full of flavour. Among the most famous, Epoisses is a cheese with a soft, melt-in-the-mouth centre, made from unpasteurized whole cow’s milk. Its rind is brushed with Burgundy marc, giving it a distinctive orange-red colour. Creamy and fruity, it benefits from an AOC and AOP.
Charolais (AOC pending) has a cylindrical shape and is made from unpasteurized goat’s milk, with a cream or blue-tinged rind. Its aroma deepens with age.
Mâconnais (AOC, AOP pending) is a small goat’s cheest, with a pale, slightly salty centre that evolves with ripening.
Chaource (AOC - AOP) is a soft cheese with a smooth, slightly salty centre and mouldy rind, with a cream and mushroom smell.
Soumaintrain (AOC pending) is made from cow’s milk and has a moist, coloured rind (ivory to ochre for the most ripened). It has a soft texture and has a hazelnut, mushroom and underwood taste.
Langres (AOC) is made in different cantons of the Côte-d’Or. This cheese made from whole cow’s milk is soft after ripening, with a pale yellow to reddish brown brushed rind. It has a strong flavour and intense, distinctive smell.
Brillat Savarin (soft cheese with mouldy rind) is a triple cream lactic created by Henri and Pierre Androuët (1930) and named after the famous gastronome. It is found in Burgundy and Normandy.
Other cheeses can be added to this delicious array, like Saint-Florentin (similar to Soumaintrain), the Trappist Cîteaux (like Reblochon), Racotin (goat), Crottin de Chavignol (goat), Aisy cendré (soft cheese with brushed rind, rolled in ashes), Délice de Bourgogne (from cow’s milk, created by Brillat Savarin). …
World-famous vineyards ...
Burgundy has a unique wine industry, characterized by an astonishing diversity of terroirs, split up into vineyards and micro-climates (hamlets), located at an altitude of 250 to 500 m, mostly facing south-east. Estimated at 3% of national production, grouping one hundred AOC (33 great wines, 44 AOC local and first growth wines and 23 AOC regional wines), it produced 1,529,280 hectolitres (61% white, 31% red and rosé, 8% sparkling) in 2007, representing 203 million bottles (55% exported to 140 countries).
The principal grape varieties are:
● Chardonnay (46% of the vine stock) used in vintage white wines with rich, balanced bouquets;
● Pinot noir (36% of the vine stock) produces all red wines (except Passetoutgrain and Mâcon), often wines for keeping, full of flavours and subtle;
● Gamay (11% of the vine stock) produces red wines from granite soils (especially in Beaujolais);
● Aligoté (6% of vine stock) makes fresh, fruity white wines to be drunk young;
● Sauvignon (white wines like Pouilly-Fumé, Saint-Bris) and César (red wines like Irancy) represent 1% of the total vine stock. Stretching from Auxerre to Mâcon over 27,680 hectares, the principal appellations or terroirs are :
▪ Le Chablisien (89) donne exclusivement des blancs très appréciés (petit
chablis, chablis, chablis 1er cru et chablis grand cru avec sept grands crus
délicats dont Blanchots, les Preuses, Bourgros, Les Clos, Grenouilles…).
▪ Le Grand Auxerrois (89) produit 60% de vins blancs frais (dont le Bourgogne
Côtes d’Auxerre, Bourgogne Tonnerre, Saint-Bris…), 40% de rouges (dont Irancy…).
Certaines appellations (dont Chitry, Coulanges la Vineuse, Côte Saint-Jacques,
Epineuil…) sont produites en blancs et rouges
▪ Chablisien (89) exclusively produces very popular white wines (Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru and Chablis Grand Cru with seven fine vintage wines including Blanchots, Preuses, Bourgros, Les Clos, Grenouilles). ▪ Grand Auxerrois (89) produces 60% of fresh white wines (including Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, Bourgogne Tonnerre, Saint-Bris), 40% of reds (including Irancy). Some appellations (including Chitry, Coulanges la Vineuse, Côte Saint-Jacques, Epineuil) are produced in white and red. .
▪ Côte de Nuits (21) stretches from Chenôve in Nuits-Saint-Georges and includes the great red wines like Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges and some world-famous vintage wines (Romanée-Conti, Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Grande-Rue, Romanée Saint-Vivant, Echezeaux, Grand-Echezeaux). Romanée-Conti benefits from an exceptional terroir and rigorous know-how and the famous Clos Vougeot produces a well-rounded, powerful wine. ▪ Côte de Beaune (21), located between Ladoix-Serrigny and Maranges, produces sublime red wines (including Aloxe-Corton, Pommard) and fabulous white wines like Meursault, Corton-Charlemagne, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Pernaand-Vergelesses, Ladoix-Serrigny and others. ▪ Hautes Côtes de Nuits et de Beaune produces quite light white wines like the distinguished, subtle Bourgognes Aligotés. ▪ Côte chalonnaise (71) has excellent wines (reds and a few whites) including Mercurey, Givry, Rully, Montagny, Bouzeron (Aligoté, recent appellation) and the sparkling Crémants de Bourgogne. ▪ Mâconnais (71), between the Grosne and Saône valleys, produces the elegant, fruity white wines Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché, Saint-Vérand and the Mâcon-Villages (red and white). Further south, there are four Beaujolais appellations: Moulin à Vent, Chénas, Saint-Amour, Juliénas. ▪ Val de Loire (58) is the region of Pouilly-Fumé (Chasselas and Sauvignon grape varieties) with a marked mineral-note (Sauvignon) and bright exotic fruit notes
A wealth of products...
Similarly, the superb Bourgogne truffle (tuber uncinatum Chatin), a jewel with hazelnut and mushroom aromas, add its touch of nobility to the gastronomy. Burgundy cooked meats (with quality labels) are rightfully famous through products like parsley ham infused with Aligoté white wine (IGP pending) from an ancient recipe (14th century), chitterlings sausages (andouillettes) from Chablis (pork) and from Clamecy (pork and veal), cured ham with wine dregs (marinated in Burgundy wine), ham from Morvan (aged seven months on the Morvan high slopes), rosette from Morvan (dry sausage), pork liver sausage (jesus) from the Morvan and Chablis (dry), judru from Nolay and Chagny (meaning “chubby-cheeked”, a 3-pound sausage), terrines from the Morvan, etc. The region is well watered by its many rivers so it has superb fish (zander, trout, pike, carp, tench, etc.) and crayfish and lots of recipes. Mustard is an emblematic product that has become more or less universally known under the generic name “Dijon mustard”, (simply a manufacturing process), where as the authentic mustard is “Burgundy mustard”, the only mustard with an IGP (manufactured to specific specifications from seeds cultivated in Burgundy and AOC Bourgogne Aligoté white wine). Made with wheat flour, gingerbread (brought back from Asia by the Crusaders) is a popular Burgundy “sweet”, with hints of cinnamon, clove or green aniseed, honey from the Morvan or Pays d’Othe (heather or acacia). It can be tried in ring biscuits (crunchy with almonds) or iced (small rounds with jam).
Other irresistible sweets include the famous Flavigny aniseed drops (a village in Côte-d’Or named after Flavien, a Roman traveller who brought back anise seeds from Syria), these delicious, traditional little white drops with an aniseed flavour (and also violet, rose, orange blossom, mint and liquorice) are widely known and recognized by their small oval box. Shaped like a puck, Nevers nougatine is a sweet made of sugar cooked with almonds then covered in coloured royal icing, created in 1850 by Louis-Jules Bourumeau, a Nevers confectioner. As for the raisiné, it is an excellent jam made from white grapes and autumn fruits. The blackcurrant is undoubtedly a symbol of the region. It has become very famous largely due to the elegant Crème de Cassis from Dijon and the famous kir cocktail (1/3 crème de cassis and 2/3 Bourgogne Aligoté white wine) made fashionable by canon Kir, mayor of Dijon from 1945 to 1967. Among other liqueurs and alcohols from Burgundy, there is the marc de Bourgogne and fine de Bourgogne, the red fruit cream liqueurs (not to mention the nectars and fruit juices), ratafia, etc…
A refined gastronomy...
This region of a hundred terroirs is a land of “greed” where Bourgogne rhymes with gastronome, and several Burgundy recipes or dishes had become national dishes, such as bœuf bourguignon, côte de bœuf bourguignonne and fondue bourguignonne (all with Charolais beef, of course), coq au vin (red wine and marc de Bourgogne) and others. However, other regional dishes deserve attention from gourmets, such as œufs en meurette (poached eggs in a red wine sauce), gougères (small pastry puffs with cheese), corniottes (choux pastry with cheese), cion and fra (small tart and pancake with cream cheese), flamusse (custard tart with squash or apples), pôchouse (‘fisherman’s bag’ in regional patois, a stew made from lean and fatty freshwater fish, with white wine), cacou (black cherry clafoutis) and others. Burgundy is not just a region of refined gastronomy; it is also a constellation of “stars” in the person of highly talented chefs who play a role in the influence of French culinary art. They include Patrick Bertron (Relais Bernard Loiseau in Seaulieu, 3*), Jacques Lameloise (Lameloise in Chagny, 3*), Jean-Michel Lorain (La Côte Saint-Jacques in Joigny, 3*), Marc Meneau (L’Espérance in Saint-Père-sous-Vézelay, 2*) and Patrick Gauthier (La Madeleine in Sens, 2* )…
Francis Duriez
Source: Conseil Régional de Bourgogne, Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bourgogne, Chambre régionale d’Agriculture de Bourgogne, Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne, Librairie Gourmande - Paris, La Bourgogne dans les beaux textes - Editions de Bourgogne, ARIA, Maison des Industries Alimentaires de Bourgogne, Cuisine de Bourgogne de A à Z - Editions Bonneton, ITCE, Inao, Moutarde Fallot, Bourgogne Escargots Photo credits: Conseil Régional de Bourgogne (Marielys Lorthios: photo of Epoisses, Vincent Arbelet, Michel Ferchaud, Pierre Combier, Emmanuel Crouail, Michel Joly), Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bourgogne (Alain Doire).
Pro reviews
A word from François Patriat...
President of the Regional Council of Burgundy
« Burgundy agriculture is a dynamic sector that generates over 36,000 jobs. Consequently,, producers and farmers must strengthen their positions, beyond the food and environmental considerations. That is why promoting our local productions is a major challenge for our region. The “Burgundy at Rungis”* operation is consistent with this determination to promote our know-how and the quality of our products. Burgundy’s ambition is to become the production basin for the Paris Region ».
*The “Burgundy at Rungis” operation will be held on 14 and 15 October 2008 at Rungis (Espace Rungis), two great days to promote Burgundy products.
Pro reviews
France Aubriet
(Chairman of SAS Bourgogne Escargots)
« Our company was founded forty years ago and employs 35 people on average (increasing to 70 in the last few months of the year), producing 120 tons of raw materials (meat). The meat is that of the famous Burgundy snail (helix pomatia), symbol of the region. Also known as the “vineyard snail”, it is the most famous and most sold snail in France (East and North) and especially in Burgundy. It is usually consumed (70%) at the end of the year. Our productions essentially involve the prepared product raw (40%) and frozen (40%), notably “à la bourgignonne” (stuffed with butter, parsley, garlic and shallots). The remainder (20%) is canned. Our clientele breaks down as follows: 60% large and medium-sized supermarkets and domestic consumption, 25% catering wholesalers, 15% retailers. The French market is relatively steady, consuming 1,500 tons of snails (10% picked). The Burgundy snail is becoming rarer in France and now comes mostly from Eastern Europe. Snail breeding represents less than 2% of production. It is a typical dish on brasserie menus, while some chefs include it on the menu in various original recipes. Our region is known for its wines, products and gastronomy and our association, Vive La Bourgogne, is deeply involved in promoting the region through different events, like the Rungis event, set up by the Burgundy regional council ».
Dominique Chambrette
(President of the Burgundy regional agricultural chamber, President of the Côte-d’Or chamber of agriculture, deputy General Secretary of the French wheat producers’ association)
« Burgundy’s three largest productions are wine-growing, cattle rearing with the Charolais breed and large-scale cereal and oil-producing crops, which rank it among France’s top three farming regions. Burgundy also represents a lot of other productions such as mustard, cassis, dairy products and others inspired by local tradition and quality. Burgundy also has a great need to find markets nationally and internationally. This is why the operation to be run at Rungis Market is very interesting and innovative. Rungis is a formidable market and the Burgundy region deserves to be represented there via its products. This operation is a way for us to use a collective promotional approach that cannot fail to benefit all our producers
».
Marc Désarménien
(Manager of Fallot, a mustard-manufacturer, President of the association Vive La Bourgogne)
« This is a family business founded in 1840 and I actually succeeded my grandfather and father. The company has 19 employees and produces 200 tons of mustard a year, which represents 4 million pots (from 25 g to 5 kg), half of which is exported (USA, Asia, Oceania, Australia, Europe, etc.). Our mustard is upmarket but at an affordable price. It is sold in delicatessens, commercial catering and hotels rating stars. It comes in a stoneware pot under the “Moutarde de Bourgogne” appellation and we are the only company that makes it. It now benefits from a product certification (CQC) and should obtain an ICP by the end of the year. Contrary to Dijon mustard, which is a manufacturing process rather than an appellation, “Moutarde de Bourgogne” has to meet certain specifications, such as being seed grown and harvested in Burgundy, stone ground (as in the past, to prevent heating and preserve the aromas), Aligoté de Bourgogne white wine (replacing the sour wine used in the old days). Burgundy has a great diversity of lovely products so 23 producers have set up the Vive la Bourgogne association that I chair to make them more widely known. The “Burgundy at Rungis” operation is important to us and could not have been done without the regional council’s backing. ».
Georges Blanc
(3-star head chef at Vonnas - 01)
« Burgundy is a formidable region that holds an exceptional place in France’s heritage; the name alone has a certain magic. Burgundy has a very consistent identity through its products and wines. It has a very dynamic cuisine that knows how to blend tradition and creativity around some of the greatest products. This is the case with Bresse AOC poultry, which I have been supporting for over thirty years through the inter-trade committee I chair. I think this is a worthwhile battle and a wonderful goal that each chef has to conduct in their own region, by helping to develop and promote products. Doing a promotional operation on Burgundy products at Rungis is a wonderful idea. You can find all the best products at Rungis and it’s a showcase you simply cannot avoid, a place where you have to be seen ».
Jacques Rebillard
(Vice-president of the Burgundy regional council, in charge of agriculture and forestry)
« Our region has three major types of production, namely wine, cereals and beef (Charolais). The wine production is symbolic of the policy adopted by our region. It is a very well identified, top quality production that reaches regional, national and international markets. There are also other quality productions such as dairy farming, sheep farming and other more specific productions like cassis liqueur, cheeses (Epoisses, Chaource, Mâconnais, etc.), AOC and Label poultry, etc. These are high quality niche products that also contribute to the Burgundy region’s fame. We support the idea of an ambitious regional policy of quality productions, capable of spreading our products throughout the world. In this respect, the Regional Council’s role is complementary to the actions taken by the State and Europe. It has the role of organizing the sectors, from production to conversion, and the role of supporting these sectors through a number of actions (technical support, innovation, promotion, organizing markets and events, etc.). In this light, we consider the operation at Rungis as very important for several reasons. Rungis is a quality market that really corresponds to the type of clientele we are looking for (small and medium-sized local retailers) and is consistent with our products. We are optimistic about the future because we’ve gone from a situation of over-production to a quality approach. There is a widespread movement to revitalize our country based on action by the regions ».
Jean-François Ravault
(Farmer and president of the syndicate to promote Charolles beef)
« Burgundy has two flagship products, which are wine and Charolais beef. The Charolais breed has a good reputation for pure bred reproduction, especially in France and crossbreeding abroad. The Charolles region, where the breed originates, is well-suited to cattle breeding with its natural grasslands and rich grazing land. Our Charolles beef AOC plan is based on three factors: Charolles’ land, the farmers’ know-how and genetics. To benefit from the Charolles beef AOC, the cattle must be born, fattened and slaughtered in the Charolles region. It must have spent the last three seasons on the grasslands and only a complement based on cereals and linseed meal is allowed. It must also comply with the genetic origin demonstrated by a typicality in its meat (tenderness, juiciness, savour, maturation capacity, etc.), which differs from other Charolais meats. In fact, our plan has been the subject of over 700 blind-tasting tests over five years and we want to make it the Charolais flagship. Rungis is a market that might be interesting for us; it’s a gap in the market that we are taking under consideration. ».
Catherine Troubat
(Manager of Les Anis de Flavigny)
« This delicious little aniseed sweet dates back to 1591. Used at the time in Dijon gingerbread, the monks at the abbey of Flavigny started making sweets with this seed in the Middle Ages. When the monks left in 1789, the villagers took over its production. It is still the same small round sweet today. A truly French symbol, it is always sold in a small, handy oval box of 50g, depicting the shepherd and shepherdess, and is available in other flavours like violet, liquorice, mint, orange blossom and lemon. I took over the company (25 employees) from my father and grandfather. The production remains steady at 230 million sweets a year (or 230 tons) and 25% is exported (USA, Canada, Japan, South Korea, Europe, etc.). The Dutch are its greatest fans, after the French. Burgundy has made a name for itself with all its quality products (wine, mustard, gingerbread, cassis, snails, cheeses, aniseed, etc.) so it deserves to be presented at Rungis, which is a superb showcase and a launching pad for our producers and products. This operation at Rungis is an excellent idea by the Burgundy regional council. ».
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