Identity card
This vegetable allegedly began life in Montreuil-sous-Bois where an inhabitant planted some wild chicory roots in trays in a cellar in 1630. The conditions of the place (warm temperature, humidity, no light) apparently encouraged the development of the large pale leaves. The cultivation of this salad then began, supplying Parisian markets until 1950. The original form was then lost, in favour of the white dandelion.
In the north of France, legend holds that in the 18th century a Capuchin monk once lost a root in a chalk or limestone quarry ("catiche" in French) where it then grew to produce white, slightly furry dentate leaves, reminiscent of the monk's beard.
The genuine "barbe à capuchin" is still cultivated today at 12 m below ground in the famous quarries, which is what gives this vegetable its exceptional qualities, like the long, plump lobed leaves (40 cm), yellow and white, tender and sweet, with a delicious bitterness.
Production and consumption
Only two producers produce roughly eight tons of "barbe de capuchin" every year. The labour-intensive production is limited. After a sowing in open fields, the roots are removed and immediately replanted below ground. Six weeks later, the first slightly golden leaves are carefully harvested individually by hand. Every 15 days, another collection is made (4 or 5 per season) and further replanting helps stretch the season from October to March. This winter salad can be served raw or cooked with a bit of lemon or balsamic vinegar (to counter the bitterness). It goes very well with fish, especially salmon.
In the north of France, legend holds that in the 18th century a Capuchin monk once lost a root in a chalk or limestone quarry ("catiche" in French) where it then grew to produce white, slightly furry dentate leaves, reminiscent of the monk's beard. The genuine "barbe à capuchin" is still cultivated today at 12 m below ground in the famous quarries, which is what gives this vegetable its exceptional qualities, like the long, plump lobed leaves (40 cm), yellow and white, tender and sweet, with a delicious bitterness. (sources: Marché de Phalempin, Producteur GAEC Patinier)
At Rungis Market
"Barbe de capucin is a rare, expensive, fragile product. We sell it in small quantities, about 15 to 20 kg a week, and only over two or three weeks in December," says Jean-Pierre Maréchal, salesman for Butet. "This vegetable is mainly bought by restaurants, which use it sparingly for decoration or lightly sautéed to accompany meat. It shouldn't be confused with white dandelion, often mistakenly called "barbe de capuchin".
Séverine Littière
