How did you get into cooking ?

My taste for cooking came to me from my parents and grandparents, who were farmers. When I was very young, I became fascinated by the products of the land while helping my grandfather and, naturally, by cooking. I started as an apprentice at La Chaumière in Ancenis (44) when I was 16.

When did your restaurant first open ?

About a century ago; there has always been a restaurant on this spot. The owner-chef, Jenny Jacquet (1*Michelin) created the business and worked with truffles for twenty years. When we took it over, we decided to keep the name because we also work with the truffle in all its different varieties. With my wife, Corinne, who is in charge of welcoming customers and taking orders, we redid the decoration of the restaurant. In the kitchen, I am assisted by Helmi Derbal, and there are eight people on the team. There are seven people serving in the restaurant.

What kind of cuisine do you propose ?

We work with seasonal products. Our menu is based on the five truffle varieties of the year so it changes five times a year. It includes three or four meats and as many fish. Our flagship products include soft-boiled egg with bacon cream and grated truffle, truffle crisp, scrambled eggs with truffles (brouillade), risotto with truffles deglazed in champagne, bass in a clay bowl covered in black truffle, caramelized sweetbreads (alone or with veal ribs) with macaroni cheese with mushrooms, roasted turbot with a truffle caviar, the very chic lobster hot dog (with or without truffles), not to mention the blue lobster cooked in yellow wine, royal hare, and others. The desserts include truffle ice-cream with a truffle-flavoured soufflé. We also have a house appetizer made with truffles. Whether white or black, the truffle remains the diamond of gastronomy. As for our wine cellar, we have 400 good wines on our list, given that many wines go well with truffle dishes.

Who are your customers ?

We are lucky to be in a place that allows us to have a good clientele of businessmen and a particularly loyal local clientele. Furthermore, our clientele includes a certain number of leading politicians and show business personalities. Actually, Mr Nicolas Sarkozy inaugurated the restaurant. Almost all of our clients come to us to enjoy truffles. On average, we serve 60 meals a day in summer and 80 meals a day in winter. Generally speaking, the average cover charge is between €80 and €100 in summer and €150 and €200 in winter. Our prices effectively vary depending on the seasons and the truffle species, as the prices are very different.

We also propose a tasting menu (€110 to €150), which varies throughout the year depending on the truffle season (five varieties). However, this menu and some à la carte dishes can be made without truffles, at the customer’s request. Lastly, we also have a set menu at €36 (starter, main course, dessert).

What is your opinion on the trend in cooking?

We work on a traditional basis, although it retains some modernity via novelties in terms of preparation and presentation. It is true that the so-called molecular cooking has forced chefs to question themselves. However, although cooking should be a source of amazement and seduction, there is no reason to serve up any old thing. As I see it, cooking should primarily focus on products and whether they are seasonal, while adding a touch of modernity.

What is your opinion of Rungis Market ?

I have been doing my shopping at Rungis every Tuesday, for the last five years. I buy practically everything there, except for fish. We are lucky to have magnificent products of exceptional quality and a particularly wide choice at Rungis. Rungis professionals are competent and it’s enjoyable to meet up with other restaurant owners. It is always a pleasure for me to come here.