What made you start growing bunch onions ?

Actually, this crop is the result of an opportunity that came up about seven years ago. I had just graduated from ISA in Beauvais and I didn’t want to work for the family cereal farm. In the meantime, some large British bunch onion producers had just contacted my father Patrick, who was a farmer, to develop a production especially for the UK. I started out with one hectare and the production now covers just over 60 hectares, split between three sites: my father’s farm located at Ablis, with Mr Jean-Marc Leluc in Carbouville, a producer who came in with us, and here in La Forêt le Roi and on some rented land.

What are the special features of this crop ?

We had to produce specific 230 gm-bunch onions according to precise specifications (a special variety for which they supplied the seed, perfect packaging with the onions stripped and the roots trimmed, constant quality, great freshness, etc.). We built our own processing equipment to do this because my father is also an engineer in farm machinery. This crop demands an enormous effort in terms of staffing, because it is a manual crop. Furthermore, it is a rather complicated plant so far as it needs light and heat for the bulb to grow properly, both of which must always be exactly the same. The bulb is a storage organ and you really need a good ‘sense’ of this plant to gauge the right moment to harvest. We do reasoned farming and in August 2007 we obtained the EurepGap fruit and vegetable certification, which is essential if you want to sell to the UK. The production cycle runs from April to October. Besides onions, we have more marginal productions like parsley, turnips, spinach, etc...

What are the characteristics of this market ?

We started with one hectare and now have sixty hectares. That proves that demand is growing. We managed to increase our market share because we have a steady, good quality production. Under our brand “Oignons Saveurs”, we supply 50% to large and medium-sized supermarkets, 35% to Rungis and 15% to the UK. This product requires a lot of work and staff. I work every day from 6 am to 9 pm. I essentially oversee production and the commercial side. My wife Marie handles the administrative side. One of my four permanent employees, Slobodan, originally from Serbia, supervises the seasonal workers (Turkish, Serbian and Portuguese). There are four other producers like us in Ile-de-France who can supply the market in sufficient quantity. I think we need to develop this product, particularly for fast food applications (processed).

What are the qualities of an onion ?

A good onion should be fresh, tender, crisp and not too spicy. The red onion, which we also produce, is milder and slightly sweet. Although we primarily eat the bulb, the commercial aspect essentially depends on the freshness of the green parts (leaves). Onions can be eaten raw, especially in salads, tabbouleh and with vegetables. It has known benefits as an antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic. Elderly people often prefer the bunch onion. It can be served whole, browned with new potatoes or caramelized on top of a slice of pan-fried foie gras.

What do you think of Rungis Market ?

I learned about Rungis in 2000, after a difficult period on the British market and a production surplus. I met Gilles Grandjean from Cruchaudet Grandjean who introduced me to the market and I will always be grateful to him for that. He then introduced me to BC Prim, with whom I also work and who sells my productions at Rungis. This market is hard because the competition and selection are very tough. But I love Rungis because of the contact with people. I regret that Rungis sticks to traditional produce and that there isn’t more innovation. Actually, I’d like to set up on the producers’ floor to offer my produce from Ile-de-France, because top quality produce really deserves to be at Rungis…